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Old 05-30-18, 11:46 AM
carlos danger
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Location: the danger zone!
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Bikes: steel is real. and so is Ti...

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Get handbuilt ones.

I build my own wheels and try to get a fairly good hub (everything from exotics to dt240 to shimano slx).

Recepies for truly good wheels imo:

hubs: 32 hole hubs dt350/240 with optional 36 tooth internals and steel freehub, or on the cheap shimano slx hubs (you need to open up and pack these with good grease before use, like molycote, and put some motor oil in the mech, these needs servicing once a year).

rims: dt swiss or mavic only (the rest is crap in comparison). needs to have eyelets, needs to be welded and not pinned nor sleeved. Personally I use the all black dt tk540s in the rear and xr400s up front on my 700c/29er comuters. on my 26er i use the downhill/enduro/xc welded versions (like a 400g up front and a 500g in the rear and another set with a 500g up front and a 600g in the rear. g as in gram. a weight unit.

spokes: dt competition 2,0-1,8-2,0mm, silver.

nipples: dt swiss blackened brass, regular type (i like 12mm and feel these are the best).

this will build a very strong and durable wheel. I have never ever thought about going below 32 spokes. i know better. I'm guessing and expecting all of my builds will last until the universe turns cold, in about 64 trillion years or so.

I have never trued any of my wheels and they are all as true and rounds as they day I built them. I did however do all the stress relieving needed during the builds. and built with grease in the threads, no thread locker. look up mike t's wheel building guide Wheels . I also used to measure (read the guides) and calculate.

Last edited by carlos danger; 05-30-18 at 11:50 AM.
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