Originally Posted by
ollo_ollo
A replacement fork is best solution, but not necessary. Here are before/after pics of 2 personal examples:
Zeus was repaired by Bill Stevenson of Olympia, WA. It had frame/fork damage cracked paint above & below on top tube and down tube at the head tube junction with a slight ripple that disappeared after repair, fork required straightened & aligned. Frame plus Front & rear dropouts were also aligned. My son has been riding it for 11 years now with no problems.
Peugeot PKN-10 was repaired this January at Atelier Gugi. Paint job may be debatable, but gratitude beer was worthwhile. I believe the ride is better now than with the factory geometry. Don
Wow. That is some really impressive repair work! Nice to see them brought back from the brink.
I happen to really like that Peugeot paint as well.
Originally Posted by
The Golden Boy
It could just be the shadows and/or digital weirdness. I read things about a bend there and see all the "the frame is toast" posts- and I don't know if that's a real safety thing, a "tracking" thing or if it's just someone being "that guy."
The Retrofriction thing is something that you don't get until you've used 'em. Simplex were the ones to develop it- I think people who haven't experienced it know that it's different from pure friction shifters- and ratcheting is different so ratcheting must be Retrofriction. What gets more confusing is that most every friction shifter is labeled as "retrofriction" on VeloBase. The Shimano spring loaded levers are "similar" to Retrofriction- it's smooth with not clicks or ratchets- but they're not clutched like the Retrofrictions- I think the spring just counters the derailleur spring- but it is smooth like that. The original Suntour ratcheting Power shifters have the standard ratcheting action- Suntour developed a more finely toothed ratcheting system around 1985 or so, most commonly seen on the Sprint group shifters- that's the ratcheting that the Rivendell/Silver/DiaCompe ENE shifters are based on. The Sachs/Huret ratcheting is as smooth, but not as fine toothed as the Sprint shifters.
Interesting, the incorrect information on Velobase and the like very likely swayed my thinking. I'd certainly like to try a real retrofriction sometime, considering how much I like the Huret rachets, Barcon rachets, and the old spring loaded Shimano shifters. Although the rachets in the Hurets and Barcons give a nice tactile feedback that makes things easy.
Originally Posted by
mstateglfr
Frame looks nice. The veins are just the paint slowly going to junk.
funny timing on mentioning making it a stool as i told my kids about 10 min ago that I want to make a bike stool with them out of a junked frame. They can go crazy with the spray paints.
Looks like this one is safe from becoming a stool!
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So last night I put a straight edge against the top and down tubes all around the circumference, and it's straight as an arrow with no bulges
Now I just need to decide what to do about the fork. I'll be keeping my eyes open for either a direct replacement (another Passage or Voyager fork) or maybe doing something a little different. Surly has 1" threadless cantilever forks available for their Cross Check that I think would work really well for this bike. They are 700c forks with mid-blade and dropout eyelets for fenders and low-rider racks, and even though they are black I think that would be the best option for this bike. The frame will likely be refinished eventually. Or if I can find a 1" disc fork I wouldn't have much of a problem throwing that on. I've already got a touring bike as well as a couple of vintage bikes with all original components, so I'm thinking of doing something a little weird with this, maybe a pseudo cyclocross setup with 32c knobbies? Maybe a singlespeed?
Who knows, it's going to be a slow build, however.