Old 10-07-18, 01:02 PM
  #24  
3speed
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Originally Posted by jitenshajin View Post
Try bending aluminium back into shape without it fracturing. You can't. Try finding someone who can weld aluminium in a far flung place. You won't. The same applies to new-fangled materials like carbon fibre. Try repairing that if it fails.

You can't beat the "feel of steel." Remember only "steel is real", especially in a touring bike. Where reliability and durability, are more important than anything else.
As I said in my post above, I wouldnít try to bend or weld AL, Or steel. If I were in the middle of Africa and my frame broke, Iíd use something like a heavy layer of fiberglass/resin to bind the frame until I get to where I need to be for proper replacement. I think I have a lot better chance of that than some rando guy in a small village with a couple car batteries and some wire, or the farmer with the very powerful arc welder that he uses to fix his heavy duity broken farm equipment. But you go for it and hope your frame isnít damaged further. Worst case scenerio with fiberglass is it cracks and you have to try again. As for ďsteel is real,Ē I also mentioned that I love steel. Itís fantastic for wonderful riding road bikes. Late 80ís race bike are a joy to ride. The frame flexes and soaks up road vibration beautifully. I donít want a flexy touring bike. Thatís when things get sketchy going down a fast descent, or youíre trying to put down power and you can feel the load swaying around as the bike flexes under you. No thanks. The tires will soak up the road vibration. I currently have two touring bikes, both of which have seen real touring miles. One is an $850 steel frame-set. The other is a cheapo AL frame and decent cyclocross fork, both of which I found at the local co-op. If I went on a road tour tomorrow, no question Iíd take the AL bike. If I went on a gravel/off-road trip Iíd take the steel bike, to smooth out the ride, but try to pack lighter so that the frame isnít trying to twist-steer itself on the trail. One option for steel is to make it stiff by using thicker, heavier tubing. If you donít mind the extra weight, that may be a good option. Personally, I see no point and prefer a lighter bike that handles hauling a load well.
As for where the fiberglass is coming from, if thereís someone with a welder handy, you can probably find something like fiberglass or epoxy of some sort. You find what you can and make do, just like youíd be doing with the village welder. As for rear dropout failure due to a poorly loaded bike with a massive load on the rear and nothing in front(which I would argue is the opposite of the best loading for a bike. More weight should be in front low rider panniers), well, you did that to yourself. Research and using your equipment properly is the way to hopefully avoid such issues in the first place. Heavy rear loads result in things like poor handling, unnecessarily heavy, 40 spoke rear wheels(unless youíre a large person) that still fail, and rear triangle frame failure. A well built AL or steel frame isnít going to break if you arenít abusing it.

Last edited by 3speed; 10-10-18 at 02:29 AM.
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