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Old 01-03-19, 11:41 AM
aire díthrub
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Originally Posted by linberl View Post
Thanks, sounds like I don't need to add any other kind of nuts. I will find some videos and see how to set the tension. As for fixing flats with the wheel still attached, I do it all the time --- deflate, pull the section of tube out that has the offending object and patch and put it back and inflate. I even do that with QR wheels on my Bike Friday...but you have to be able to see from the tire what caused the flat. Takes a 5 minute job and makes it a 2 minute job =). But sometimes you can't see from the tire where the tube is punctured, thus the need to learn how to remove my SS wheel.
I also saw somehting about "track nuts" and wonder if they are worth it. Being a "little old lady" I'm a bit concerned about being able to snug the axle nuts back down tight enough once I replace a wheel. I don't have a lot of hand or arm strength compared to a typical fixie/ss rider. If it's tight as I can get it but doesn't hold, that would not be a good thing.
obviously having to replace a tube would require complete removal of the wheel. This is why I said you should practice. Patching a puncture with the wheel still mounted, if that’s your thing, I’m not going to argue that. Do your thing mate. As far as axle nuts are concerned, there are two types, yes. I don’t know what type of nuts your bike came with, but a ‘track nut’ is basically a nut with a captive (floating/spinning) washer. It’s a captive nut. That’s it. And you should absolutely use captive nuts. If yours aren’t, then absolutely replace them. If you want to purchase a set of ‘track’ nuts, there are some more expensive and less expensive. I use shimano’s Dura-Ace nuts because they came with my hubs. Most people (and I would agree) would say they are some of the best. Retrogression ( has a decent set of track nuts for 5 bucks a pair. So 10 bucks for front and rear. You could probably buy a set of captive nuts at a hardware store, but you neee to make sure it’s the right size and thread pitch, and usually your rear axle is larger diameter than your front. (10mm rear and 9mm front)

you shouldn’t need to torque them down super hard. That’s where the captive washer matters. It bites down and holds. With captive ‘track’ nuts, you should be able to tighten down your nuts sufficiently without worry. And you won’t be putting down anywhere near enough torque, especially with a ss, to cause them to slip.

if you’re curious though, you could purchase a chaintug to practice with and without to see what you prefer. But you should have quality captive nuts, full stop. Everything else is just practice to get it down.

i have a very easy method of setting chain tension, but it won’t be helpful to you because my ss is a road bike conversion with older horizontal forward facing dropouts, so it’s not applicable for a frame with rear facing fork ends like yours.
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