View Single Post
Old 01-04-19, 12:32 PM
  #17  
seamuis
aire díthrub
 
seamuis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: chatham
Posts: 508

Bikes: Raleigh Competition, Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cielo Sportif Classic, Mercian Vincitore Speciale

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 23 Times in 17 Posts
Originally Posted by linberl View Post
Well...crap. If it's not, do I just leave it or is there another option? I liked the idea of something that would maybe be easier to snug down to ensure I get enough torque on the bolts, being the wimp that I am.
the nut doesn’t have to thread so far down on the axle, that you have axle sticking out past the top of the nut, when you’re dealing with captive nuts. Outside width of the nut is irrelevant. What’s relevant is the height of the captive washer and nut together. The mechanic at the shop will be able to determine if your axle has enough threading to safely engage the nuts they have. This would be a completely different scenario with non-captive nuts. Typically non-captive are taller (require more threading) than captive or ‘track’ nuts. Precisely because the captive washer means less threading is required to properly secure the nuts. So if your bike currently has non-captive nuts, that have enough threading, you should have plenty of axle threading for track nuts.

while you’re at the shop, ask the mecahic to let you tighten down a nut with a standard size wrench, to your strength ability and see if that’s secure enough. I’m willing to bet, you’ll be able to do it fine.

Last edited by seamuis; 01-04-19 at 12:37 PM.
seamuis is offline