Old 01-10-19, 07:40 AM
  #19  
PMK
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Royal Palm Beach, Florida
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Bikes: 2006 Co-Motion Roadster (Flat Bars, Discs, Carbon Fork), Some 1/2 bikes and a couple of KTM's

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Originally Posted by Yamato72 View Post
We have BB7s on our Cannondale and I've gotten them dialed in to my satisfaction. The biggest improvement was changing to Jagwire compressionless brake housing with a new cable. Next, I bought a truing fork to straighten the rotor (if you have blips then you have to adjust the caliper out too much to stop the rotor from dragging). Then I cleaned the glazing off the pads with 220 grit sandpaper. Lastly, I cleaned the rotor surface with acetone. The cable and housing fixed most of the sponginess in the brakes, and truing the rotor fixed the rest of it. Cleaning the pads and rotor helps a bit but mostly stops squeaking. We are a nearly 400lb team and I have no braking issues anymore.

Adding a helper spring did not make a difference for me.
And don't grease the housings when you install the cable either. Don't know where I picked up that "tip."
Agree. Attention to a few details gets results. Acetone does well to clean the surfaces of metalic pads also. Not a fan to read when people substitute acetone based nail polish remover for true acetone.

The tool for truing the discs works well. Sadly, with non floating discs, we often induce small amounts of wobble from heat and distortion. Unless truly bent, I leave well enough alone.

Not sure how you cut your cable housings, I typically rough cut to length with Park cable cutters, then final cut with a cut off wheel or ensure the ends are flat on a belt sander or similar. Obviously, reopening the inner liner with a scribe after cutting and squaring.

Deglazing the discs work very well to help burnish the pads quickly. Also after burnishing, the remaing texture reduces, even prevents shudder from the disc being too polished.

Everything you posted is great advice.
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