Old 01-12-19, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
Well I just measured the width of the Phil Wood bottom bracket cups and they are 8.7mm wide per side.

I just checked my other road bike with a Dura Ace 7800 crank with 68mm English bottom bracket and Dura Ace 9000 bottom bracket. The 9000 bottom bracket cups protrude 11.8mm per side. So 11.8mm + 11.8mm + 68mm = 91.6mm width.

Comparing that that to the Klein it is 8.7mm +8.7mm + 75.5mm = 92.9mm width.

Or... 1.3mm wider for the Klein. Thatís just under 0.7mm wider per side. Hardly the 4mm per side that would need to be professionally faced off with Campagnolo bottom bracket facing Tools. I think Iím going to take what Leroy said with a grain of salt and press these cups in with some grease and try out my Shimano crank. I suspect that the left splined side will have some leeway with the plastic pre-load set screw that you tighten the preload on.

I donít have a specialty tool for removing press fit cups. If I test fit this as outlined above and find that it isnít right, what procedure would be used to knock the bottom bracket cups back out again?
Wow, I'd forgotten that the Shimano cups were that wide. I recently measured BSA30 threaded cups for 30mm bb spindle and those were just 9mm, which is apparently as thin as they can be made.

The Shimano Hollowtech spline interface is "secured" with a plastic/metal pin retainer that is supposed to fit into the 3mm hole in the splined part of the spindle, to assure that there is sufficient spline engagement before tightening the pinch bolts on the left crankarm.

The outer pinch bolt should be removed so that the retainer can be swung out of the way, and the preload plug then hand-tightened. Then the retainer swings down into place about the inner pinch bolt, with the pin then fitting (or not fitting) into the 3mm hole in the spindle. If the pin lands in the hole, then the outer pinch bolt can be inserted and both bolts torqued repeatedly until they are both tight (tightening one initially tends to loosen the other).

Now, if the pin doesn't fall into the hole, an assessment needs to take place to see how far out of "acceptable" engagement that the splined parts are fitting together.

You would be completely on your own if you decided to either remove the retainer clip or to possibly enlarge the 3mm hole slightly to one side so as to allow the retainer pin to fall into the hole as intended. There is no published data as to how the reliability and safety are affected by using other than the intended amount of splined overlap, and 1.3mm does not sound like much.

Removing the cups is done with a tubular pipe tool with one end splayed in four sections like a headset cup tool, only larger. You could make your own out of metal conduit or could use a drift punch (crude but likely effective).
I would try to take measurements to see how much space can exist between the crankarms WITH the retainer clip pin in the hole in the spindle, then compare to the combined width of the bb shell and the two cups. If it's as close as your numbers suggest, this may work out fine, though the chainline is going to be even further out than it already is in the modern 11s world. So is your frame spacing 130mm already? Longer chainstays (than racing length) would be of help here for reducing chainline angle while using the big chainring, something to consider if you predominantly use the large chainring.

Note that there are also a couple of spacers that typically come installed on Hollowtech cranksets, one looks like a seal and has considerable thickness, perhaps it can be removed (from the inside face of the driveside crankarm)?
The non-driveside arm has a little ring that also acts like a very thin spacer, so see of removing either of these spacers still allows clearance against the face of the bearing on each side.
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