View Single Post
Old 02-12-19, 07:39 AM
  #19290  
Road Fan
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 13,970

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 708 Post(s)
Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
You've already got the Bikesmith cotter press. In the future (once you have the cotters removed initially) you will find that working with cottered cranks is easier than square taper cranks. Far less possibility of creaks! The trick to removing a stubborn cotter if its been in the cranks a few decades is to remove the nut and washer and treat it with a bit of penetrating oil, let it sit for a day and then gently heat the crank with a torch. At that point you can apply a bit more pressure with the press and the cotter will come out intact.

With a 46 tooth sprocket in front and low of a four speed like the FW or FG, low is actually good for some serious climbing even with the stock sprocket in the rear. I'm no spring chicken (63) but last fall I took my '51 Humber Sports (set up with an FW) up the Ramsey Hill here in St. Paul which is a pretty steep climb- did it without stopping. If you need a crankset with a 48 in the front I have one (cottered of course) free for cost of shipping.

If you absolutely have to change out the BB, Phil Wood makes a bottom bracket square taper with threading designed for Raleighs.
The BikeSmith solved 50% of my problem, performing a "like buttah" extraction on the non-drive side. On the drive side the clamp could not fit correctly. I hoped it would self-align but instead it bent over the threaded stub. I straightened and then removed the stub and tried to drive it with a 1/4 " drift, but that only expanded the top. I then started drilling from the bulbed end. The hole is up to 1/4" and rather larger due to filing it with a round mill bastard and several different sizes of chainsaw sharpening files. Also a tapered hand reamer. I have about another 1/2 mm to remove at the formerly threaded end, they I'll try putting the NDS arm back on and trying to shear it by standing on the pedals. It might then be small enough that I can collapse it. So I have a manual process I can follow and really cannot fail (ultimately there will be no more cotter in the bore), but it's a major pain.

I also don't have much hammer technique or confidence. I have a BFH and a good claw hammer, but I am not confident I can wack it with abandon, in terms of aim. Nails rarely need the full power at my disposal, so I don't have much practice.

I really just don't want to have cotters on the bike for my riding. But I don't want to destroy any parts other than cotters, so I can still make it look normal and nice, someday.

Gearing: I have a 48 T front ring, as original. In TA rings I have 44, 46, and 48 on hand. I'd start with 48 and potentially reuse the Renold chain. The rear is 17 (should double check that) for a Normal gear of 77.15, hence a low gear of 57.9 - not real low. If I can change the front end to 48/32, I can get a bottom gear 38.6. If I go to 46/30, it will be 36.2 inches. Big jumps, but wide range!

Pricing is a challenge: Phil is around $200, V-O is about $65, and a spindle is anywhere from $1 (lucky find at LBS) to maybe $30 (Ebay). But with a spindle I can get a different length to go from single to double, not counting the derailleur, et cetera. And I have installed numerous spindles complete with grease and those little balls.
Road Fan is offline