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Old 02-12-19, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
The BikeSmith solved 50% of my problem, performing a "like buttah" extraction on the non-drive side. On the drive side the clamp could not fit correctly. I hoped it would self-align but instead it bent over the threaded stub. I straightened and then removed the stub and tried to drive it with a 1/4 " drift, but that only expanded the top. I then started drilling from the bulbed end. The hole is up to 1/4" and rather larger due to filing it with a round mill bastard and several different sizes of chainsaw sharpening files. Also a tapered hand reamer. I have about another 1/2 mm to remove at the formerly threaded end, they I'll try putting the NDS arm back on and trying to shear it by standing on the pedals. It might then be small enough that I can collapse it. So I have a manual process I can follow and really cannot fail (ultimately there will be no more cotter in the bore), but it's a major pain.

I also don't have much hammer technique or confidence. I have a BFH and a good claw hammer, but I am not confident I can wack it with abandon, in terms of aim. Nails rarely need the full power at my disposal, so I don't have much practice.

I really just don't want to have cotters on the bike for my riding. But I don't want to destroy any parts other than cotters, so I can still make it look normal and nice, someday.

Gearing: I have a 48 T front ring, as original. In TA rings I have 44, 46, and 48 on hand. I'd start with 48 and potentially reuse the Renold chain. The rear is 17 (should double check that) for a Normal gear of 77.15, hence a low gear of 57.9 - not real low. If I can change the front end to 48/32, I can get a bottom gear 38.6. If I go to 46/30, it will be 36.2 inches. Big jumps, but wide range!

Pricing is a challenge: Phil is around $200, V-O is about $65, and a spindle is anywhere from $1 (lucky find at LBS) to maybe $30 (Ebay). But with a spindle I can get a different length to go from single to double, not counting the derailleur, et cetera. And I have installed numerous spindles complete with grease and those little balls.
Just for future reference, I'll describe my plan B for this situation. So far, I've never had to go beyond this to be successful, but who knows? I may someday need a plan C but I haven't yet. If I see the threaded end of the cotter start to bend from pressure from the press, I file a small flat on top. Then I center punch the pin by eye. Then, starting with a small drill and working up in size as I go, I drill down into the threaded end of the cotter. The last drill I use is almost the size of the clearance hole around the cotter. I drill down until I'm well below the edge of the crank arm. Now, the drill leaves a nice countersink perfectly in line with the cotter. Then I find the biggest punch I have that fits neatly into the countersink. Then I lower the bike stand until the wheels are on the ground. Then I drill a hole in the end of a 2x4 big enough to clear the cotter. Then I fit the 2x4 so it fits snugly between the cement floor and the crank arm. Since the spindle and crank arm is being supported by the cement floor and the 2x4 and the force of the hammer blows is being directed exactly where it's needed, I have a lot more power on hand then I did with the press pushing against the threaded end.
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