Originally Posted by drlogik

This is going to sound a bit off-the-wall but it often works. It's an old trick I learned from the owner of the first shop I worked in back in the 70's. I think he was a machinist before he started his bike shop.
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• Things you'll need: old pedal wrench that still fits tight, Kroil penetration fluid (the best for this job) , ball peen hammer, a partner or a stack of bricks
• First: turn bike on its side with stuck pedal down. Douse the pedal shaft threads with Kroil or another thread penetration fluid and let sit for an hour or so then douse it again.
• Grab onto the pedal shaft with the pedal wrench and put decent tension on the wrench and start lightly tapping the wrench (2 or more taps per second) with a ball peen hammer very near the end closest to the pedal...maybe 2 or 3 inches back from the end.
• Keep tapping and increase pressure on the wrench as you tap. Don't pressure so much that you round-off the pedal flats. Take your time. It's a LOT easier with a partner to hold the crank while doing this, or, stack bricks under the other pedal to keep the crank from rotating.
• If it doesn't budge, douse with more penetration fluid (again, Kroil is the best for this), wait and try again.

The action of tapping the wrench with a hard-faced hammer and increasing tension on the wrench acts like a pneumatic impact driver and will often break the galvanic corrosion bond.

Note: As was stated before by another poster, time is your friend. Let the penetration fluid do its job. It may even take a couple of days of repeated dousings and tapping. A good industrial hardware store or industrial supply store will have Kroil. Kroil is truly amazing stuff.


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