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Old 04-21-19, 10:58 PM
  #10  
Bike Gremlin
Bike Gremlin
 
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,092

Bikes: Custom made on Scott Speedster frame, Custom made on a 1996. steel MTB frame (all but frame changed at least once in the past 20 years).

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Properly built (and tensioned) spokes will not untwist, so no need to glue them (including the above mentioned "spoke prep").
Anti seize is best since it prevents them from seizing in the long run.
Other options (grease, or oil) will disappear after the wheel is built (within one year after that).
Oil is easiest and quickest to apply - dipping the spoke thread ends and using cotton wool sticks (for "ear cleaning") dipped into oil for lubing the nipple-rim interface.

If spokes start untwisting without any glue, it's a sign of either:
- Rim got hit and bent
- Spokes have not been tensioned enough (if a wheel is built to the 70%-80% of max. tension the rim can take, then the rim is to week for the application/use - using thinnger, or at least swagged spokes can help with this, especially on the non-drive side of rear wheels that have a cassette - and are hence dished).

So for my own wheels, I'd rather know of this (by noticing the spokes coming loose). For wheels built for (far away) customers, using glue makes sense in case a rim gets a dent - it will keep the spokes in place so they can more easily "limp" to the nearest bike shop.
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