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Old 06-27-19, 11:10 PM
  #35  
scarlson 
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 1,774

Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem

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Little bits and bobs

Cable housing stops, I brazed with a nice low-buck jig. Basically it is a 1/4-20 socket head cap screw (For those continental types, an M6x1 would also work) stuck into the housing stop and then clamped to the frame with a hose clamp. This allows for good view when positioning and easy brazing without things moving around. These cable stops were put on top tube and downtube with Harris Safety-Silv 56. I also removed the original housing guides and saved them for another build. Hey, they're nice looking. Just not the direction I'd like to go with this one.



I went kind of crazy with the rear fender mounts. First here is the upper mount on the brake bridge. I wanted to preserve the cool Trek brake bridge, which looks to be brazed out of several pieces with a through-tube. I used too much silver and I disgust myself but it is well stuck on there. Basically it's just a stainless donut with m6 threads. I tore the donut out of a clamp for high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) valving. Again, science junk is the best junk. Again this is silver brazed with Harris Safety-Silv 56. None of the original brazing filler is melting when I do silver temps. I think I read somewhere that old Treks are made with either silver or nickel-bronze, which basically are the two I'm using here. It looks like mostly bronze, in the work I've uncovered.



The chainstay bridge had no hole and no tube. I put a nice non-threaded tube in. This will allow me to do some experimentation with fender mounting, where a threaded mount would restrict me more. I want to try a wingnut and bolt to perform the same role as the Velo Orange Spring Thing, allowing me to remove the rear wheel without deflating the tire. Or maybe an entire fender that removes with wingnuts for rinko. The concept is not fully thought out, but a smooth hole with built-in washers should be future-proof. All the washers and tubing I used were stainless, so I brazed with Harris Safety-Silv 56. It was a fun exercise.


I had bought some rear brake cable housing stops (to go between-chainstays above rear canti) from Framebuilder Supply, so I brazed one of them on using bronze. These are really hard to braze with the turbotorch, as it turns out. I did OK but this is one of those things for which I'd really have preferred oxy/fuel. It's on there solidly but it ain't pretty. Luckily for the hobbyist on a budget, this is also easily supplanted by a cheap thing from Surly or an expensive thing from René Herse, that hangs on the seat binder bolt.


Finally waterbottle cage mounts. These are easy!! No jig, just drill a 1/4" hole, flux up the mount, tap it in with a hammer and a block of wood, square it with its mate and the frame so the cage isn't lopsided, heat it up until the flux looks good, dab in silver, and you're done.

Last edited by scarlson; 06-27-19 at 11:19 PM.
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