Old 07-16-19, 09:27 PM
  #69  
Wilmingtech
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Rt 12 Washington USA
Posts: 368

Bikes: 2013 Ridley Helium, 2017 Blue Pro-Secco EX, 1987 Schwinn Super Sport

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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot View Post
Because it was an off the shelf solution with known characteristics and a developed product chain due to cyclocross racing. This made it popular with manufacturers. It works well for gravel because the 46 ring is big enough for a lot of riders to stay in for most rolling terrain, the 36 small enough for most long climbs and the 10t chainring jump allows 1 click double clutch to step down into the lower range while keeping close to the same cadence.

This makes sense... keeping the GI closer for a fast paced multi-surface race with challenging terrain.

16 teeth is too big of a jump and both the 50t and the 34t ring are the wrong sizes for riding by themselves in most terrain. Cadence gets all blown to hell trying to drop to the little ring and then downshift twice to get to the next lowest gear and also the lower range. To say nothing of most riders being unable to get much additional performance out of greater than 90 gear inches.

True on the gravel and the cyclocross track, but 95% of us are riding on paved surfaces as well. Throw in some downhills on the paved surface and we all spin out.

1x marketing made everything think overlap was a bad thing when it's actually very good and makes for smoother shifting on inconsistent rolling terrain or terrain with significantly difference power requirements based on road surface - a fair amount of gravel in most areas.

Agree overlap in a smaller range keeps the GI closer and on a slippery gravel surface it's much easier to keep the bike under you if your cadence when you drop to the small ring isn't going from pushing to spinning.

Regardless, I think gearing is a fine science that has been under appreciated since the widespread popularity of integrated shifters. The difference in cog choice in the rear can have a significant effect on both enjoyment and performance for a lot of riders. And to a smaller extent the front as well. Gravel has really brought the focus back to choosing specific gearing options for rider preference, riding style, tire/wheel size and terrain.
I think the thing we over look here is that 1x is a thing when you get off the tarmac. I totally see the benefits of a 1x setup when navigating mountainous terrain, not having to shift the front nor think about the chain dropping.

When I got my gravel bike it came with a 46/36 up front and an 11-28 in the rear and it really made me scratch my head thinking about gearing. (I truly enjoy the science of gearing)

As I worked through the options I started to think about what gearing I would go for in the terrain I ride if I had a 1x setup. Ultimately I think a 38x12/40 would be the sweet spot where I live (in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest). On the 700c wheels it would range from 90gi on the top end and 25gi at the bottom.

If I started with a 34x11/30 I wouldnt have to change the derailleur. I already have the 36t chainring that came with the bike and if I changed out the derailleur cage I could throw an 11/36 on the back get close to my 90 on the high end and have a 1/1 or close to 27gi on the high end. One step away from the ultimate goal of 38x40.

This is all while keeping the big ring on the bike. So now I got options for the Tarmac getting to and from the gravel rides and still being able to pace with guys I ride road with as well, at least for the shorter 30-40 mile rides.

So its the best of both worlds. On the gravel I ride 1x and on the tarmac I can put the hammer down with plenty of options for climbing.

I also think riding gravel (Think Dirty Kanza) and racing cx call for 2 completely different setups. Gravel being the topic here is geared (Haha, I crack myself up) more towards longer off road rides at a slower pace than cx with a lower frequency of shifts.


Originally Posted by Rides4Beer View Post
My Revolt came with 48/32, 11-34, and it's been pretty much perfect for what I do around here. No problem keeping up with fast groups on the pavement, and plenty of gear for the climbs I've encountered so far.
This to me makes a little more sense to the masses than a 46/36, 11/28 or 30. Slightly wider range and better to pull those squirrely loose gravel climbs with.

You'll run out on the downhills in a 32x11 though, even in offroad dirt or gravel

Originally Posted by Caliper View Post
It's all done as one shift, not separate ones. Again I said cadence disruption, I'm not sure how long the entire shift takes but there's only one disrupted pedal stroke.
The point he is making is the gear inches. The gear inches between shifts are much tighter. When you hit a hill you can just drop to the little ring and when the incline ramps right up, you dont even have to shift the rear. It keeps you from over spinning as well as having to make shifts to both front and rear.

And I get what you are saying about doing it all in a single revolution, I do this as well when I ride but in racing it just isnt ideal on an all out pedal mashing hitting a hill and crunching the chain hoping it doesnt slack or slip.

-Sean
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