Originally Posted by conspiratemus1

No experience with Rohloff so take this with a grain of salt until you get something better. Good wheelbuilding practice is to make sure the spoke runs in a straight line from the elbow in the flange to the end in the nipple seat, the path that would be taken by a tautly stretched thread. In lacing a wheel, the stiff spoke wants to take a gradual bend along that course and will have a residual bend when the tension is brought up. The proximal end of the threads is a stress-riser where the movement resulting from fluctuating tension stored in this bend will eventually break the spoke. This effect is strongest when the spoke makes an awkward angle with the rim, and is also hardest to relieve.

The method ("Improving the Spoke Line at the Rim") is described in Jobst Brandt's The Bicycle Wheel which I heard is now out of print but it has been my resource for a score or so successful (amateur) tandem and single wheels. Essentially you are trying to convert the gradual curve (which stores tension energy) into a couple of fixed, "kinks" by over-bending the spoke at the rim (and the hub, separately) until it takes a set. I have done this on all my wheels and no spokes have broken in the nipple but as I say, no experience with a hub that big, just "ordinary" high-flange tandem hubs. Perhaps the builder of your Rohloff knows all about this and did it according to Brandt,so it's as good as it's going to get already. It's impossible to tell if it was done just by looking at the wheel -- it's subtle even with the spokes loosened.

I find improving the spoke line to be the hardest part of building a wheel, there's a lot of "feel" involved and it's physically demanding -- I'll cry if someone comes along and shows me it's totally unnecessary. The process is different (if somewhat related) to the stress-relieving done after the wheel has been fully tensioned.

As I say, until you get something better....