View Single Post
Old 10-11-19, 11:16 AM
Senior Member
merziac's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 8,384

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 163 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2551 Post(s)
Liked 1,824 Times in 1,228 Posts
Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...FWIW, a fit that is "very tight" is usually about what I strive to achieve. It's kind of difficult to interpret what that means to different people. But something that slides easily in the seat tube is not my preference in fitting a seat post. I want it to be solid enough against the walls of the seat tube to not require a whole lot of tension on the seatpost bolt/clamp.

And if the 27 marked post is too tight for you at the interface you now have, but still inserts into the seat tube, you're usually better off sanding it down a little than going down to 26.8, which will slide in there nicely, but often end up as too loose a fit.

Clearly, this is only how I do it. I've already been involved on one long and pointless exchange on this topic with another regular contributor. I only offer it as something derived from practical experience.
Agreed, this is very good advice.

Snug without sticking is good, most of us lament the crappy Campy seapost binder bolt that breaks and while it is a crappy bolt, they will do their job if the seatube inside is round, free of burrs and snags and correctly sized.

I have had many bikes where the post was too tight and once I cleaned up the inside and got it round, the snug post slides in and out very nicely while being snug and allowing the binder to do it's job with out overtightening.
merziac is offline