View Single Post
Old 01-08-20, 08:20 PM
  #60  
scarlson 
Senior Member
 
scarlson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 1,771

Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem

Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 811 Post(s)
Liked 1,065 Times in 573 Posts
Originally Posted by gugie View Post
Yeah, just copy what Mssr. Weigle does. Slot the splice piece, bolt it all together
I do like that. Nothing gets completely unscrewed so there's less chance of dropping hardware. Just so I understand this, how does the head of the bolt keep from turning when you tighten that acorn nut?

The Weigle approach would be the approach I'd take, but I'm not planning on splitting the fender. I have designed it so that you just remove it in one piece, since it's going next to the rear wheel anyway. The bolts that hold it to the seat stay- and chain stay bridges will be held captive in the seat stay and chain stay bridge holes on my setup by tight-fitting leather or rubber washers (or snap-rings if those don't work well enough). I think this should work, and I think it's worth trying as an alternative to the canonical setup.
__________________
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
scarlson is offline