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Old 01-15-20, 08:44 PM
  #71  
scarlson 
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 1,777

Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem

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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
Rather than rivnuts, why not just rivets?
Rivets to hold the fender to the frame? Like hollow ones and then have nuts under the fender? Or rivets to hold the reinforcements on? I really don't like using pop rivets, but I'd like to get into flush riveting as was done on the old CAR-MAXI hub flanges and also some aircraft.

Really liking your fenderlines! I don't think most people appreciate the planning it takes to get them even all the way around and matching front to back without spacers.
Well, I am cheating a little with the thicker leather washers on the chainstay bridge and the thinner ones up top. But I will say that my Taylor has between three and zero of those homemade thick leather washers depending on what bridge the fender's attached to, so I've definitely got him beat!

The Herse is, of course, perfect...

Also getting the chainstay bridge placement just right with horizontal dropouts so you can just get the tire out fully inflated takes some forethought and planning.
I have to give credit to the Trek design team for that. People said this bike was ideal for a 650b conversion, and so far it has not disappointed me. I was really a little shocked that things worked out so well.

A framebuilder I will not name replaced the chainstays and bridge on my Ron Cooper and he definitely screwed that up. You have to deflate the tire for sure. I'm still miffed with him, six years later. I may redo it now that I have practice.
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
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