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Old 06-04-20, 11:47 AM
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scarlson 
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Location: Medford MA
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Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem

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Originally Posted by abshipp View Post
Really great work on that FD How do you like the 48/28? I'm running a 46/30 with a 10 speed 12-28 cassette and every once in a while I want something a bit lower. I'm a bit hamstrung by using a short cage DA derailleur so I cant go with too wide of a chainring gap, but it could probably handle an additional 2-4 tooth gap in the chainrings if I don't ever cross chain little-little.
I've been happy with the big jump. Like I said, it's an instant MTB when I pull the lever, which is pretty neat. Lately my preferred triples are 24-36-48, biopace. So far, I'm not missing the middle ring, but that may change if I put a front lowrider on it and take it touring. I ride with a more variable cadence than a lot of folks, because of my joint hypermobility issues that plague my back and knees, so that might have something to do with it.

I'm in the same boat with my 716, but I think mine is a couple of pounds heavier if my analog fish scale is to be believed. The current wheelset has got to be pretty portly since it's built with 36° Velocity Synergy and Atlas rims but I've got a set of A23 rims waiting in the wings to hopefully build something lighter. Those are 36° as well, so not a whole lot of weight to be lost there.
Nice looking bike! I'm also using a fish scale. I do hope it's reading high, but it agrees with my other fish scale...
A23s are just about the lightest you can get, only 5-15g more than the lightest Pacenti rims if stated weights are taken at face value.
I have done a quick analysis of weights in the wheels and I was not surprised to learn that the spoke count is the smallest factor at play, at least for me. Here's the breakdown.
  • Rims: You'll save 220g total (110g per wheel) going to 2x A23 from Synergy + Atlas. I'll save 320g going to 2x A23 from 2x Ambrosio Keba.
  • Rear hub: Depends but most stock Shimano mtb rear hubs are in the 350-400g range, and I can get something vintage and CNC that weighs only 225g. I'll save about 150g. You'll save less weight if you're using road spacing, because it's hard to find a road rear hub under 200g, and even 105 isn't too much heavier than that.
  • Front hub: SP SV-9 dynamo is 313g, and anything Shimano is going to be 550-700g. Currently on there is an S500, which apparently is 678g for a total savings of 365g on the dynamo alone (!) You don't have a dynamo on your 716, it looks like. But I bet you could still cut the weight down by 50g or more by trolling ebay for an old American Classic or Hi-E or some such sub-100g front hub.
  • As for spoke count, it's not so much to speak of. You go from 36 spokes to 28 spokes and going by Sapim's stated weight for the Force triple-butted spoke of 6g per, you're only looking at 48g per wheel. Change from Sapim Force to Sapim D-Light and you're also looking at a savings of 1g per spoke, or 36g per wheel. You could do this. If you've been using straight-gauge spokes, the weight savings will be even more.
The rest of the extra weight is mostly from the saddle and handlebar bag, and I'm looking in to some synthetic saddles for weatherproofness, lighter weight, and hopefully something a big stickier than a smooth leather saddle. I think that I want a little bit of grip so that I don't slide around so much. Looking at the Fabric line of saddles currently, I could save almost a whole pound just by switching that out!
Yeah I agree on both fronts. This Brooks is the same model as the one I toured on for collectively 400 days. I've had that since I was 14. I don't slide around so much anymore! But the new one, man, I'm all over it. I like the older Terry saddles, which are less triangular-shaped. The leather dye does stain regular pants in the wet, though. I wish they had produced a decent synthetic-covered ti-railed one in the early '00s!

I'm also always going back and forth on what front bag to use, I've got an Acorn Tall Rando that I love the aesthetic and size of, but my Swift Ozette is a bit lighter and has better organization options with it's internal pockets and elastic banding. The flip side is that the Ozette closure mechanism is much fussier to use, especially with gloves, and definitely when riding!
OH you weighed your bike with the bag? That probably accounts for yours being heavier than mine!
I'm fond of my Berthoud GB28 bag, but I may add a shoulder strap. Got to get out a leather punch or sewing awl to do that, and I'm not looking forward to it!
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