Originally Posted by
sd5782
Looked at the Sheldon string measuring method with string going from dropouts to headtube and measuring string at seat tube. I did that and interestingly it was off just a bit and adding the 1.8 mm spacer to the drive side actually evened things out. That is also about the amount that the dropouts were over the nominal120mm. Lucky coincidence I guess as that suited what I was trying to accomplish anyhow.
I've used strings of various types to layout buildings with plumb-bobs, chalk lines, and such. The margin of error when laying out walls is miniscule but for a bicycle frame, the string method will only give you a general idea, but nothing to inspire confidence.
Originally Posted by sd5782;2 1571058
Back kinda to the rest of the question as to how noticeable the ride is when it is off just a wee bit. I know I rode my old Supersport for decades with the dish off from trying to true it and not knowing any better about 30 years ago as a youngster. Perhaps a heavy bike on old Kendas doesn’t show minor stuff, or I don’t/didn’t have a feel for it. I know just a bit more now and am also willing to learn more too. Of course, an old Schwinn in the flatlands here is a whole different story than flying down a mountain at 40mph on a bit more of a premium bike.
Under normal riding conditions, a frame that is out of alignment won't be noticeable or dangerous, but cruising down a hill at higher speeds could cause the bike to wobble.