Using a qr with discs require a certain amount of attention to detail and specifically reasonable eyesight to make the teeny tiny adjustment/positioning so that the rotor is lined up well, even with a well positioned caliper.
Some riders I know just aren't attentive or have an aptitude for mechanical stuff at all, so this is an issue.
but to be fair, it took me a while to get used to the mm dependant change of having to be careful of positioning , compared to an easy to eyeball rim wheel lining up, so I get the thru axle thing, even if I haven't used one ever.
I think you just explained it.
My one bike that has disc in rear apparently has tight enough tolerance that when I drop the wheel in it is perfect. But if many bikes are made with looser tolerances, I can see having to fiddle with it.
Decades ago, some bikes with horizontal dropouts had little adjusting screws (Campy drop outs for example) so you could be very precise in how you adjusted the frame. But on other bikes I recall holding a hand on the left chainstay and a spoke in the fingers to adjust how the wheel was oriented for rim brakes, it only took a few seconds but you just get in a habit of doing it. Then vertical dropouts came along, you did not need to do that any more. But now if you have sloppy tolerance in the dropouts and you are used to vertical dropouts, I can see needing to fiddle with it for a few seconds when you are not in the habit of doing so.
Originally Posted by
IPassGas
After I work on our bikes when off the ground. The last thing I do as standard practice is to place the bike on the ground, put a bit of my weight on it, loosen the QR and then tighten the QR. Often, the wheel alignment corrects a bit and everything is centered. ....
Yup. I often do that too, very easy to do with a quick release. When touring I usually use bolt on skewers instead of quick release as a theft deterrent, that slows down the process but it still can be done in seconds.