Originally Posted by
billyymc
One suggestion is when you're initially seating the tires do it without the sealant in there. Once they seat, let the air out, add sealant, and re-inflate. Less mess.
Can't comment on why they won't stay seated, but maybe if you do what I suggest above but WITH the valve cores in and let them sit for a while you can get it to work.
Thanks for this suggestion. I did eventually try the same step without adding sealant first, and same result (but less mess). I also tried inflating with the valve cores in place and couldn't get the bead to seat.
I did inflate with tubes and let them sit overnight at pressure, and just now deflated one of them and it stayed seated, so maybe I can pop one side off to remove the tube and get it back on and try again.
Originally Posted by
73StellaSX76
Did your new tires mount as difficult as the first? If so, maybe build up the bed with a layer or two of tubeless tape for more bead interference. This worked for me until I decided the advantages of tubeless do not warrant the extra work, at least not for me.
If you plan to swap tubeless tires often then consider the skinny stripper product ( yes, they are called that, look for them on the fatty stripper website). The layer of the stripper adds to the interference and aids in creating a seal. Also makes tire changes back and forth cleaner. I ran them while running tubeless after a while. They were a bit of a pain to set up initially, but in the long run make sense to me.
The tires were a bit difficult to get on the wheels, but not impossible. They certainly went on easier than the GP5K's I did last summer, but required more effort than a standard clincher. I'll check out this stripper product. These wheels came stock as "tubeless ready" with tape installed, and I've never done anything with them. I am suspecting that at least one of them needs a new tape job though.
Originally Posted by
tyrion
Never heard of this before. If the tire is truly seated, it should take some effort to push the bead off the "shelf" of the rim. My guess is that the tire wasn't seated completely (even though it popped). Maybe more air pressure is needed. Whether the tire is truly seated can usually be determined with visual inspection - there will be some kind of line on the tire, and this line should be concentric with the edge of the rim.
2 things:
* it's common to seat the bead before putting the sealant, then put sealant in through the valve - less potential mess that way.
* I rode a properly taped rim with a tube, and it mucked up the tape job, I guess the tube worked on the tape and rubbed the edges up just a bit to require a new tape job to go back to tubeless. Maybe my tape job wasn't perfect but it worked for months prior to putting a tube in.
Thanks. I will try first without sealant in the future to at least avoid the mess. I agree that the tire wasn't truly seated, and is why it was sliding back off. I was maxing out my Airshot at 160psi and dumping straight into the tire with no valve core. To get any more air flow/pressure I'd need a compressor. At that point I may as well just have a shop do it, which starts to make tubeless unrealistic for me.
Originally Posted by
franswa
The first time I set up tubeless I followed this trick and seated the bead on half the rim and the tires inflated easily and beads fully seated with a track pump
https://youtu.be/tE3h4nmDdOo
Have you tried this with CX/gravel/road tires? Seeing him pop that MTB tire onto the wheel without any tools makes me think this probably isn't going to work for me. I had to use multiple levers simultaneously to get that last bit of tire bead over the wheel. The CX tires I'm using are not as tight as the GP5K's I took off, but I'm still skeptical that I could get a lever under the bead and pull it out towards the edge the way he's showing. He's also struggling a bit on the second side, even with that loose MTB tire.
Still, thanks for sharing. I'll give it a try.