Thread: Tbtio
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Old 03-19-21, 05:47 PM
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francophile 
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Originally Posted by Albion View Post
Oh yeah - I am so looking forward to getting the Team Fuji built up! I rode wifey's lifeless lump of carbon fiber when she first got it and good grief what a difference. Projects (AKA "life") have been allowed to get in the way of the Team Fuji, but I am getting there. I am currently looking for a six-speed, 14/30 freewheel to replace the 40-year-old item on the Fuji that has developed a maddening click once per revolution, regardless of the speed. Any thoughts where I might get one? I was thinking of stepping up to twist-tooth if I could. Here's a pic . . .
First, @nlerner may need to change his name to "Nail" because he nailed it

General rule of thumb, FD cage, if straight, should be in-line (parallel) to the chainrings There's debate about cage height, but if you RTFM with most manuf'er manuals they'll tell you the bottom edge of the cage should be in the range of 1mm-3mm above the top of the teeth. Shimano's newer stuff actually has a guide taped on for you to reference during install, and sometimes it's actually right. There are situations where you either can't abide by this or certain mechs perform better in different ways.

Meanwhile, those Perfect freewheels kinda live up to their name. I personally prefer the New Winner models, but I've got several of the Pro Compe and New Winner models I keep for my favorite bikes, they're just really damn good freewheels and versatile, with easily serviceable cogs with the right tools. Never throw it away. And if you need to know more about what beauty you have there, consult Sheldon: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/suntour-freewheel.html

Pieces of advice:

If you have another similarly-threaded freewheel with similar range, try swapping it in for one ride. Still hear the click? Ok, it's NOT the freewheel. Try to find what it is.

If it IS the freewheel, this is going to sound absolutely absurd, but it works to clean up sandy, gunky, stuck-pawl freewheels to a usable state - it'll also de-gunkify the worst of the worst parts. I keep a $15 crock pot, a tiny 1.5 quart unit, on my shop table. On the LOW setting, you can gently cook caked grease off parts. It works exceptionally well for freewheels, to fully clean them out. Here's what I do: Fill the 1.51t crock pot with 4 cups water (2/3 full). Add about half a shot glass of purple Simple Green HD degreaser. Pop the lid on it, turn it on LOW, then let things cook overnight. Fish out a clean part the next day with a wire and gloves (it'll be hot). If you have a compressor, blow as much air through the body as possible to blow any extra bits out, then leave it to cool. If it was extra sandy, I'll flush the body with a jet of hot water, change my crock pot water out, and run another cycle, then blow out. If you're worried about residual water, put in an oven at 150-170F for 30 minutes to steam out any water. Once completed, be sure to lube the body. Note: This is absolutely not an alternative to a proper rebuild. I prefer to rebuild my stuff, but if it's a cheap part, or too far gone and I just need it to work, I'll go this route.
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