Old 11-28-21, 10:35 AM
  #24  
zacster
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooklyn NY
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Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others

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Originally Posted by Crankycrank View Post
Presta cores can be a little different between brands but IME the threads have always been the same and should be interchangeable even if the length of the core and/or stem is different. Presta tools don't need to be anything extravagant. They have a pretty simple job of just snugging up the valve with minimum force and there are various tools from very small plastic tools to nicely made metal versions with varying prices. Pretty much anything here will be fine but getting a tool with both Presta and Schrader removal heads can come in handy. presta core removal tools - Bing You can also just use a small adjustable wrench or just a pair of pliers if you don't care about marking up the core flats or trashing a stuck core. I have an old mini chain tool I carry with me the has the slot where the pushed out chain pin goes through that is just the right size to use as a core removal tool so check any chain tools you have to see if they fit and then no need to get a special tool and also some spoke wrenches may fit.
At least with Presta cores they sell replacement kits that are universal so the cores must be universal. And the kits are cheaper than a new tube. I wish I'd realized that a while ago because I've thrown away a few good tubes over the years after I broke the core. It was when I last broke a core that I finally ordered the kit and was able to fix it on the bike easily.

One thing I've learned though, I should always pump with the valve at the very top, this way the pump head does not put any sideways pressure on the valve, bending the pin which eventually breaks. And as I said above, once you have a lifetime supply of tire/tube repair items you'll never need them because by then you've figured out what you do wrong.

And here is another trick. When mounting a difficult tire, always have the last section at 90 degrees to the valve, not 180. The valve gets in the way of the bead so it can't go to the narrowest point in the spoke groove opposite from where you are working. It may be all you need to get the tire on without irons. That will avoid pinch flats.

Last edited by zacster; 11-28-21 at 10:43 AM.
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