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Old 01-31-22, 06:24 AM
  #12  
Fentuz
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Bikes: Dahon Jetstream p8 (sold), customized Dahon Helios x10, customzed Dahon Smooth Hound x11,customized Dahon Hammerhead 8.0 d7, Planet X Free Ranger (mullet setup 1x11), Planet X Giovanissimi 20 (1x9), Frog 52 (1x9) and Frog 48 1s

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Originally Posted by Jipe
Another solution to have a softer braking is changing the disc brake pads to have less powerful ones.

Soft bake pads have a lot of power and wear fast, harder pads have less braking power and last longer.

Not quite... I run harder enduro pads and they brake better than soft organic pads. My enduro pads need a little warm up but they stop harder and longer than the soft organic that brake from cold but cannot handle the repeated hard brake and over heat...

As others said, it is about the technic (like with car although cars have abs because many drivers can not modulate). But if the mechanical advantages are not adequate (oversized brake) then, the braking out brake the tyres and the vehicle (car, bike etc.) goes into a skid.

Originally Posted by Jipe
I have G04S semi-metal with Shimano XT Ice Tech rotor and these are much more progressive and require more power on the lever to obtain the same braking force.
Semi metal pads (on bike and car) operate at higher temperature than organic pads. they need to worm up, not more power, but more applications. Yes when you apply more power you will get them to to work but you will create more wear. If you wear to apply the brake lighty a bit earlier, the system will be "hot" and brake better.

When I raced, I used to do the warming lap left foot braking to make my metallic pads would work and once warm, no hard pedal, it was the same as cold organic. Same with my metallic pads in the rain, I clamp them a little as I start the ride to warm up and then, they brake well without excessive force and have good modulation.

Last edited by Fentuz; 01-31-22 at 06:36 AM.
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