And then for my thinking....
drive side, ds, would be the cassette side, right side as you sit on the bike, so that's clockwise in these pics.for how the wheel rotates
non drive side, nds, is the plain/non-cassette side, left side as you sit on the bike, so that's counterclockwise in these pics for how the wheel rotates
And then trailing/pulling spokes would be spokes attached at the top (when the bike/wheel is upright) of the hub, pulling on the rim. And those are supposed to be under-under-over for the spokes they cross when it's cross three laces. Although to me, that first spoke it crosses it barely there. It does cross under those first two, but there's not a lot of choice there. The mid spokes then are "supposed" to have the trailing/pulling spoke crossing OVER the other spoke then. Although it sounds like there might be pros and cons either way. I just want a standard cross three, typical, cookie cutter wheel.
rotation in red
trailing/pulling spokes lined next to them in green here
ds
nds
No more weight and spoke breaking issues apparently. The only big events for my rear wheel building were the rear wheel that busted (big event) and that same wheel had a bit of a wobble going before that (minor though compared to breaking the hub).
So.... How do these look now with better pictures?
Next steps (assuming the lacing is correct) will be...
Smashing the elbow/hub side spokes in closed to the hub.
Sticking the dork disk and cassette back on.
And then dishing it more and truing it. It was easier I think in 2017 to tuck paper towels in when the spokes were a little looser.