Originally Posted by
bikerbobbbb
So I'm 2 in those pics. Both on my 2017/current wheel and the copy/2022 rebuilt wheel. Looking at the top row of pics only though. Yellow arrows are the movement of the spoke sideways, so you want the spoke on that yellow arrow head side so it's pressing against the other spoke.
And then it might not really matter if it's the other way, the 1 pics, except for how the chain might hit the spokes if it's throw off. Even then it hits the plastic disk. And those spokes are under tension and tight against each other. It would really have to hit the spokes just right and wedge itself in between the spokes.... Unless they mean bouncing off all the spokes in general vs. getting in between any spokes at all in general.... Only the drive side for that. I don't think I've ever had a chain jump off and get sucked up in the spokes though. I don't think my bike is set up for that with the plastic disk in the way. It's probably a pretty minor scenario where that would happen. I haven't the chain go over the largest cog in the cassette. It has fallen or jumped off the very smallest cogs around the skewer or whatever goes through wheel, just that end of the hub without cogs section I guess.
I bought a bike where the chain was dumped into the spokes. The problem isn't that you continue cranking with the chain on the spokes, but that the wheel keeps turning. The steel side plates start cutting the spoke, and then instead of a 1.5 mm cross section wire at 110 kg/f, you have a 1.3 mm cross section with stress risers. The folks here pointed out that the reason I kept breaking spokes on a wheel was because the chain had been dumped into the spokes at some point, and to confirm it by pulling the cassette and checking the outside spokes for nicks or rough spots. Sure enough, all 6 of the remaining outer spokes were nicked behind the cassette.