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Old 05-22-22, 01:51 PM
  #11  
djb
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Originally Posted by sweeks
Thanks for the helpful feedback, guys!

That seat position evolved over many of the early years I had the bike. I had adjusted the nose down to avoid the numbnutz phenomenon. But looking at it now, I see you are right. I took a level and set the saddle up with a very slight downward tilt. I'll see how it goes. I haven't found myself putting too much pressure on the bars. I've always felt that the reach from saddle to bars was a bit short, and that's the main reason I reversed the trekking bars... to get the controls a bit farther out. This was my first mountain bike, and the dealer "fitted" me... who knows how accurately?

I see your point. However, I've had these bars on this bike for several years and have never had a feeling of inadequate control even under "stoppie" braking. I suppose if I had the tendency to ride one-handed I might have an issue, but I keep both hands on the bars. I like those grips for the comfort they give my wrists. It will be interesting to see how the "normal" arrangement works on my road bike.
EDIT: It would be interesting to put brake levers on the more forward part of the bars.
EDIT 2: Actually, the places where the centers of my hands rest on the grips are 16" apart... only about 3" less than on another bike with a straight bar. This may be why I haven't noticed a lack of steering control.


Re. The seat, you'll know soon enough how seat angle changes work. You can also move the seat back as far as rails will allow, might help a bit for reach. And of course stem change also possible.
Re grips, I forgot that I actually cut my grips down about 1 inch or more, to gain a bit of width for levers, and it was ok, most of time hands out on sides. Old old grips so I didn't care cutting them, used a hack saw.
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