Old 09-22-22, 07:44 PM
  #3  
Ric Toronto 
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Join Date: May 2022
Location: Toronto
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Bikes: Vitus 979 Dural, Dura Ace + Mosso, Mustang carbon, Deore XT

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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
IIRC the start washer has nothing to do with the "bearing" adjustment that sets the caliper arms' slop and easy movement. The star washer is "outside" the arm's involvement.

The two caliper arms should freely pivot with as little slop or rock between them. This is a trial-and-error process with checks of the setting after the lock nut is tightened. Just like bearing adjustments on cup and cone units.

I suspect the star washer was between the center bolt's fixed part (that also has the spring slot) and the frame/fork. This is a common method to try to keep the center bolt (and that spring) from rotating off center. As long as the center bolt is well secured in the frame/fork this start washer is not really needed. A lot of high-end calipers have had a thick and very solid spacer with serrations on both faces, acting much like a cheap start washer but being far more robust. A good service focused shop likely has these stronger washers/spacers for not too much $. Andy
Thanks, and as I suspected re the "locking" washer. I had hoped there might be some sort of torque measurement for the moving arms. But as you suggest, trial and error. I've bent the pivot bolt in a bad fall, and took things apart to figure out why the brakes were noisy. Parts are pretty much unavailable so, I've figured out how to straighten that bolt and wanted to get correct torque etc after clean and lube etc. Thanks for your reply
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