This video shows what I was trying to do. His endcaps were already very very loose. Go to 2:30. This shows that the caps are both right-hand threaded which I had wondered about.
Per Reynolds, the only way to get the caps is with the freehub body. It appears to be a design where the pawls are in the hub itself, and the teeth are part of the freehub body. It was last taken apart in 2018, I wish I had taken pictures.
https://hayesbicycle.com/products/re...d-freehub-body
The 10-speed version that I have no longer being available, the Reynolds/Hayes rep said I could use it with a spacer of some kind.
Here are some pics, showing the non drive side where the cap came off, and the drive side which didn't, and the hole is stripped out. It protrudes so little from the freehub body that there isn't much to grab onto with pliers or even a vise. I had to really push on it with the pipe over the allen wrench to break the non-drive cap free, I can't imagine that even a vise would work without crushing it or really messing it up. The silver piece on the ends is what contacts the inside of the fork, and that's what I would have to grab onto. The small piece sticking out at the end being what goes into the dropouts... can't touch that at all.
The body is quite chewed up from the cassette, which I was not expecting. And yes, the lock ring was tight. Replacing the freehub body would not be the end of the world, if I had to.
As you can see, it has only the Reynolds logo, and on the drive side flange is 1314-ZL2R-317 which doesn't Google to anything.
