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For Crits - CAAD12 vs Allez Sprint vs Propel Advanced 2

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For Crits - CAAD12 vs Allez Sprint vs Propel Advanced 2

Old 06-11-17, 07:09 PM
  #26  
rubiksoval
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Originally Posted by spectastic View Post
along this vein, all of the new frames use press fit bottom brackets. avoid avoid avoid!! get an adapter, whatever it takes.
Wheels manufacturing outboard for the win.
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Old 06-11-17, 08:17 PM
  #27  
spectastic
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Originally Posted by rubiksoval View Post
Wheels manufacturing outboard for the win.
got one on my caadx. it's nice, but expensive. not better than a regular 5800 bottom bracket. niche markets suck (for the buyer).
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Old 06-11-17, 09:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin View Post
All else being equal, aero is best. Why not save a few watts if you like the way it feels and cost is comparable?
I agree

Originally Posted by rubiksoval View Post
So yeah, the jockey wheels: Last year I bought a pair of those "forever spinning on sweet bearings" pulley sets off Ebay. Thought they were awesome. They were even red to match the accents on my bike. Rode them for a while. Middle of a crit right as I was sprinting out of a turn and about to make contact with the (turned out to be winning) break, I guess one of them fell off. Pulled my chain through a couple of drive side spokes and ripped off my derailleur hanger.

I feel like that could have been fixed by simply double checking the pulley screws, but that's not something I've ever had to make a note of before. So anyway, now I only buy Shimano pulleys...Have had no issues since.

And I have a spare derailleur hanger in my toolbox.
A Set of Dura Ace Pulleys are only $25. I think I may check my pulley screws tomorrow.

Originally Posted by miyata man View Post
Is there any feasible reason, given your overall enjoyment and happiness with current GIANT, you have overlooked a to the frame rebuild? Subtracting the cost of buying and getting fit on a new bike + selling your old wheels opens up a pretty big budget to go full in on aero equipment and spare parts.

Food for thought.
If someone had a ten year old Honda Accord that they liked and where considering a new car no one would tell them their ten year old car was just as good. Or say why buy a new one if you like that one. Even if the ten year old car was in like new condition a new car is better in almost every way.

Of course with bikes components are a huge part and they are relatively easy to change. Based on my test rides components have made huge improvements in the past ten years. (By the way, none of the 'keep your current bike' people mentioned this) If the improvements in frame technology are even close a new bike is a no brainer. Edit - Even if it's not a performance upgrade a current groupset alone would increase my enjoyment of my hobby.

I have considered upgrading my current bike. Especially since a complete 105 group set can be bought for around $400. However you would still need cable housings and to install it myself would probably require buying some new tools and push the limits of my mechanical abilities. I am not sure how willing a bike shop would be to install parts bought elsewhere or the cost. Based on some internet searching - close to $200.

According to bicycle blue book my bike is worth less than $400, so putting $600 plus dollars into it seems silly. I already feel funny putting my $2000 wheel set on it but of course I can put that wheelset on any bike. If I put that money towards a new bike I have a better bike to ride AND a dedicated trainer/ backup bike.

I can afford a new bike, bicycling is my main hobby and a place I don't mind spending some of my disposable income. To me the only downside is I would hate to crash and ruin $2000 worth of bike, but it would not ruin my life. Edit - I feel like the rest of my equipment is taken care of (including a power meter and smart trainer) and as I already mentioned so is my training.

(I bought my wheelset used for much less than $2000)

Last edited by JimShep; 06-11-17 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 06-11-17, 10:52 PM
  #29  
miyata man
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You lost me in the first paragraph. The assertion a new Honda Accord is better isn't a given. Stating newer is better has no validity in real world manufacturing scenarios. HYPE sells X percentage more units than the previous year and pays to keep the PR machine churning. Especially when the new Accord is a Giant step backwards for the sake of incorporating something new. Producing off years is as much a part of sales strategy as the next revision claiming how much improvement occurred over the last. Basic Western world economics. To be very blunt manufacturing quality as a whole worldwide is much lower than it was 10 years ago. If you bought wisely a decade ago this should be of little concern. If you buy wisely now it is of little concern.

As far as I can see the rest of your response was based on inexperience. Learning how to perform basic maintenance or buying a few small tools giving you hesitation for instance. High volumes of training alone require a good amount of daily maintenance and, more importantly, diagnosis and inspection of every part of your bike. Since we are going macro here, having your 10 year old frame inspected by a qualified person is of the utmost importance if you plan to continue riding it in any capacity. Installing new cables and adjusting a derailleur isn't as large a barrier as you perceive. Torque specs and fine adjustments of proprietary parts come a little closer.

Here is one possible outcome to pursue.

- Replace every 10 year old part on the old bike. Everything, take no chances with a stem snapping or anything else losing the battle with fatigue. Mount a solid set of training wheels and put tons of hard training miles on it with a greatly reduced chance of incidence. $$$ to get in quality training on decent equipment that won't leave you stranded or injured equates to 90% of your use for a fraction of your money. This is now your wet weather/classics season race bike.

- Buy a new bike to mount your nice wheels on and ride it sparingly. Less use means less to dial back in or replace from wear. Exclusively race on it unless conditions dictate using the older bike.
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Old 06-11-17, 11:47 PM
  #30  
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Buy the allez, ride it hard, race it if you feel the urge, and smile while riding your new allez.
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Old 06-12-17, 03:34 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by spectastic View Post
along this vein, all of the new frames use press fit bottom brackets. avoid avoid avoid!! get an adapter, whatever it takes.
i've had really good luck with the praxis adapter.
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Old 06-15-17, 10:50 AM
  #32  
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I ride a CAAD12. I have the orange one (I believe it's the 105 model if you buy it full), but I simply bought the frame set and built it up with Ultegra Di2. I love this bike. Super stiff and I mainly race crits. But it does the job just as well on fast long group rides on Texas chip seal. I used to ride an 7 y/o carbon Madone, and switching to Aluminum I was a bit hesitant. But I honestly don't feel the difference on endless miles of chip seal. I never feel the vibrations some complain about when comparing alu to CF. I run a Kogel BB adapter with it to allow me to run my Ultegra crank. Don't think you can go wrong with the CAAD12 or the Allez (see plenty of crit racers on these as well).
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Old 06-28-17, 05:45 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JimShep View Post
The 105 derailleur pulleys each have a bushing, replacing them with pulleys with a bearing is an easy way to save 1 watt. Other than that the 105 is fine. (Ultegra has 1 bushing and 1 bearing)
Hah! It's funny you mention that. I took the drivetrain apart on my steel tourer this weekend to clean everything up and wax a new chain. Noticed one of the pulleys was much stiffer than the other....took them apart and noticed it was a plastic bushing inside while the other was bearings. Big difference.....
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