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race rig porn - show me your bike!

Old 07-01-13, 07:50 AM
  #4151  
echappist
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Originally Posted by caloso View Post
I guess I never posted my Ridley here. Note the Rotundos.

gawd, you need some new bar tapes fizik ftw
Originally Posted by J HY View Post
Rotundos and classic deep drops- help me understand. Yes they look the part...and admittedly I've never tried them- but I cannot see how they would be anatomically better in anyway compared to a compact, shallow drop bar. I'm using FSA compact (80mm/125mm I believe) so pretty short in all directions. *In my mind* this is ideal because the hoods can be setup in a fairly low position, and the drops are then comfortably ride-able as they aren't out of reach even with the low-ish hoods. Looking at the classic deep bends hoods- I cant see how they would be comfortable down on the bend like that. What am I missing- help me understand the benefit of the deep traditional bars?
Originally Posted by notwist View Post
different strokes for different folks
what he said

also, the bars curve back too abruptly on some of the ergo/anatomic bars, so much so that it's hard to grab the shift levers if you set up your bike a certain way. that's how i got started as the 1st gen Sram levers were just too hard to reach on a Ritchey Logic handlebar, and i had to tilt the levers way high so that i can get my hands around the bar (where it's mostly vertical) and have my hands close enough to the levers. Problem solved with the round bars as the levers are never that far away from the bar.
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Old 07-01-13, 12:27 PM
  #4152  
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Originally Posted by shovelhd View Post
The seat collar is on backwards.
Originally Posted by johnybutts View Post
Nah, I don't know why they do it that way, but my bike fitter does it that way too, so all my bikes (with collars) are like that.
Originally Posted by shovelhd View Post
So I guess that makes it the right way.
If this is a Cannondale Evo, the seat collar is on "backwards" per Cannondale. Just look at their website.
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Old 07-02-13, 06:43 AM
  #4153  
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It's a CAAD10 but it doesn't matter, both are installed with the bolt forward.
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Old 07-03-13, 11:29 AM
  #4154  
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Just came in on Monday. Still tweaking the fit a little bit. Would've never chose a Trek if it wasn't for my team's sponsorship, but I've been very, very happy so far.
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Old 07-03-13, 12:18 PM
  #4155  
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I'm not typically a fan of Trek, either, but that looks mighty nice.
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Old 07-03-13, 12:31 PM
  #4156  
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Just don't pedal it too hard. Mine broke from that.
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Old 07-03-13, 06:03 PM
  #4157  
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Originally Posted by waterrockets View Post
Just don't pedal it too hard. Mine broke from that.
Good thing my skinny climbing legs can't break a toothpick
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Old 07-03-13, 06:10 PM
  #4158  
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needs a bris
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Old 07-03-13, 10:42 PM
  #4159  
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Old 07-03-13, 11:36 PM
  #4160  
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Originally Posted by echappist View Post
gawd, you need some new bar tapes
I have fizik tape on my workbench, just too lazy to rewrap.
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Old 07-04-13, 09:30 PM
  #4161  
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My big white Teschner- cleaned, prepped, and rollin' on borrowed Firecrests for today's state RR..
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Old 07-06-13, 04:10 PM
  #4162  
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A relatively modest addition to the gallery:



The basis of the bike is a 58cm 2012 Specialized Allez E5 frameset that I got off of eBay. It replaced the 61cm 2011 Allez E5 frameset that I bought when I thought I needed a lot of head tube. I transferred the majority of the parts off the 2011, with the exception of the crankset. The parts are:

DA 7800 shifters and RD
Force FD
FSA SL-K Light BB30 crankset (39/53)
Deda RHM01 bars
Specialized Multi-Comp stem
Selle Italia Turbomatic saddle
Ultegra 6600 brakes
Handbuilt wheels - DT Swiss RR465 rims, Ultegra 6700 hubs, 32 spokes laced 3X
Michelin Krylion 700x25 tires
King stainless cages

Weight, less the seat bag, is 19.06 lbs. I could lose a pound by switching wheels, and may in the future, but it's not going to happen soon. The wheels this bike will usually wear will be slightly heavier than the ones pictured - Open Pros with a PT.

The fit on this bike is just about perfect. I'll get it refined at the end of the month when I try out the local Retül guy.
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Old 07-16-13, 06:11 PM
  #4163  
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Are time trial bikes allowed here?

This replaces my 2004 Felt B2. It was harsh, too small, 650c wheels, and my coach told me to do more time trials - hence, this one.



Ultegra group
Mavic Cosmic Carbone clinchers
Conti GP4000s
Adamo TT saddle
Fi'zik tape
Ultegra 170mm crank, KeO's

"Price point" stuff: I'm not so sure about the Microshift shifters. They work well enough, but they aren't real positive. The silly Sunrace chain kinked a link at 10 miles and had to be repaired. I have a Dura-Ace chain in the parts bag.

Other than that little stuff, it's a worlds better bike than that old B2. The frame is very smooth riding and stiff. The shop spent a long time fitting me to it, as well, so I'm really comfortable on it.
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Old 07-16-13, 10:56 PM
  #4164  
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Looks like a nice TT bike to me!
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Old 07-17-13, 04:13 PM
  #4165  
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Originally Posted by mattm View Post
Looks like a nice TT bike to me!
Thanks, Matt!
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Old 07-20-13, 08:31 AM
  #4166  
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Madone 5.2 with Aeolus D3 3's - Corsa EVO CX III's
Dura Ace 7900 Cranks - 175mm
Ultegra Carbon Pedals
3T Team Stem and 3T Carbon Ergonova Bars
topped off with a Romin EVO Expert Saddle


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Old 07-20-13, 02:42 PM
  #4167  
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^ Pretty bike! Those look really nice in the Radio Shack green, too.
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Old 07-20-13, 02:53 PM
  #4168  
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Originally Posted by sarals View Post
^ Pretty bike! Those look really nice in the Radio Shack green, too.
Thanks! :-) I took off all the wheel decals today too except for the "b". I'll get around to cutting off the excess steerer tube at some point. Sometimes I think this bike floats just above the asphalt...at least it feels that way with those wheels. The only resistance I feel when riding is me... the wheels just cut through everything... Still waiting for my call to join the Radio Shack team... ;-)
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Old 07-31-13, 10:00 AM
  #4169  
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Im trying to break an old record of 30min17sec at a 20.26km TT course tonight, after the race at 19.00 GMT+1 I'll post a race report to see if the waxing of the bike would do any difference hehe
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Old 07-31-13, 10:17 AM
  #4170  
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well, if a bike can help you go fast it'd be that one.
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Old 07-31-13, 02:58 PM
  #4171  
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Originally Posted by EmilRosenberg View Post

Im trying to break an old record of 30min17sec at a 20.26km TT course tonight, after the race at 19.00 GMT+1 I'll post a race report to see if the waxing of the bike would do any difference hehe
nice! good luck tonight. here are a few things you can do between now and then that can give a slight edge.

are you going to use a bottle for the 20k? if you don't use the bottle, ditch the cage.

the virtue bottle doesn't cause an aero penalty on the shiv, but it looks like you are running it too high. see if you can use the upper holes to mount the cage lower; the bottle fits better in the triangle.

also, looks like you have a little room to adjust the bolts in the dropouts to tighten the gap between your rear tire and the seat tube to shelter the wheel.

hilly course? curious about the 404. i'm assuming you are using fast tires, looks like a conti up front (supersonic if clincher, gp4000s if tubular) and vittoria corsa/open corsa in the rear. latex tubes (hard to do with conti tubulars unless you have a pro source or change them up).

if you look at this picture, you can see the top of my bottle (which is even higher than the top of the cage) is below the "ShivTT" writing on the seat tube. you have room to go lower. sorry, i don't have a pic without me riding it (maybe i can snap one) to show you how low the bottle sits. save the weight if you don't need the liquid, though.
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Old 08-01-13, 03:23 AM
  #4172  
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Originally Posted by tetonrider View Post
nice! good luck tonight. here are a few things you can do between now and then that can give a slight edge.

are you going to use a bottle for the 20k? if you don't use the bottle, ditch the cage.

the virtue bottle doesn't cause an aero penalty on the shiv, but it looks like you are running it too high. see if you can use the upper holes to mount the cage lower; the bottle fits better in the triangle.

also, looks like you have a little room to adjust the bolts in the dropouts to tighten the gap between your rear tire and the seat tube to shelter the wheel.

hilly course? curious about the 404. i'm assuming you are using fast tires, looks like a conti up front (supersonic if clincher, gp4000s if tubular) and vittoria corsa/open corsa in the rear. latex tubes (hard to do with conti tubulars unless you have a pro source or change them up).

if you look at this picture, you can see the top of my bottle (which is even higher than the top of the cage) is below the "ShivTT" writing on the seat tube. you have room to go lower. sorry, i don't have a pic without me riding it (maybe i can snap one) to show you how low the bottle sits. save the weight if you don't need the liquid, though.
Thanks for the reply! The reason I mounted it higher is that I thought it look better, I didn't think it would to too much penalty to the aerodynamics, do you think it would make a difference if I mounted it in the "right position"? I beat my old time last night, no official results up yet but I was a couple of minutes faster and about 2km/h in average faster. No time trials are very hilly here in Sweden, pretty much flat or just small rolling hills (some are quite steep and just make you lose your speed).

Question: on rolling hills time trial, I tend to use the downhill part to accelerate and then try to keep my increased speed for as long as I can. When I do this I tend to slow down quite a bit in the uphills but I don't know what would make me faster. As it seems now I don't have enough power to go as fast as I would like to troughout the course. Last night I was aiming to get above 50k/h on small downhill parts and try to hold speed around 47-48k/h on flats as long as my legs would tolerate it. Think I paced myself OK and I averaged 42.1km/h over 18 point something-something course. 25 minutes 51 seconds.
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Old 08-01-13, 08:26 AM
  #4173  
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^^^ Generally, go harder when it's hard, and easier when it's easy. If you go hard when you're going slow, you don't gain as many MPH, so your wind drag doesn't increase by as much as it would when you're going fast. 1mph on a climb could be 8-10% faster. 1mph at 30mph is only 3% faster. Since wind saps power at the cube of your velocity, it's easy to see that gains are easier and more efficient when your airspeed is lower.

So, a while back, when DWJOdonnell was still on here, we had a thread where someone cited 5% more power into the wind and on ~3-4% climbs, then back off a little bit on the fast sections to recover. Every course is different, and wind changes everything.
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Old 08-01-13, 09:08 AM
  #4174  
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Originally Posted by EmilRosenberg View Post
Thanks for the reply! The reason I mounted it higher is that I thought it look better, I didn't think it would to too much penalty to the aerodynamics, do you think it would make a difference if I mounted it in the "right position"?
yes.

Originally Posted by EmilRosenberg View Post
I beat my old time last night, no official results up yet but I was a couple of minutes faster and about 2km/h in average faster. No time trials are very hilly here in Sweden, pretty much flat or just small rolling hills (some are quite steep and just make you lose your speed).
great! too many variables to tell if it was aero improvements, strength (power), a faster course (wind), etc.

Originally Posted by EmilRosenberg View Post
Question: on rolling hills time trial, I tend to use the downhill part to accelerate and then try to keep my increased speed for as long as I can. When I do this I tend to slow down quite a bit in the uphills but I don't know what would make me faster.
you generally want to do the opposite. you get a bigger percentage bump in speed by putting in more power when things are hard (headwind, uphill). when going fast downhill, you have to work much harder to go ever so slightly faster.

think of an extreme case: 15% hill going up and 15% going down. makes sense to work harder going up, as you will spin out going down no matter what. this still applies to less steep hills/rollers.

the reason i asked about the hills is that you are using a 404. there are faster wheels for non-hilly courses. you could gain some speed there.
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Old 08-01-13, 12:06 PM
  #4175  
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Originally Posted by tetonrider View Post
yes.


great! too many variables to tell if it was aero improvements, strength (power), a faster course (wind), etc.


you generally want to do the opposite. you get a bigger percentage bump in speed by putting in more power when things are hard (headwind, uphill). when going fast downhill, you have to work much harder to go ever so slightly faster.

think of an extreme case: 15% hill going up and 15% going down. makes sense to work harder going up, as you will spin out going down no matter what. this still applies to less steep hills/rollers.

the reason i asked about the hills is that you are using a 404. there are faster wheels for non-hilly courses. you could gain some speed there.

thanks, I might have to try some new tactics then. I used to have a 808 tubular but I sold it with my old bike and got new 404s for the new bike. I've been thinking of getting an extra front wheel, do you think I should go for an 808 or is there any other option that is better? I'm not scared of running high profiles in crosswinds btw.
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