Power uphill vs. down...
Recently, a few people were discussing this on the wattage forum, but I don't feel that any conclusive answers came out of it.
Basically, why is it so much easier to create watts on an uphill? Is it the lower cadence (which, suits me better)? Is it the ability to engage the hamstrings more effectively in that lower cadence? Am I just lacking high cadence training? Is it the fact that on a downhill your power with each pedal stroke needs to increase within that pedal stroke to keep that wattage up because the resistance is, in effect, going away from you (as your speed increases)? Where as on an uphill, you're not accelerating speed-wise, so your pedal strokes can be met by an equal amount of gravity? I think it's safe to say that I am more strength oriented, and less cardio-fit (genetically, not just from a training or lack of standpoint), but I'm not sure if that plays a role. This question came up for me as I'm trying to do 5x5 minute intervals at a set wattage. When doing 6x3's at that wattage two weeks ago, I'm not at my limit (although it hurts). However, now that I'm playing with my upper boundaries, if I hit ANY downhill or whatever in that 5 minute segment, and attempt to maintain my wattage, the pain and cardio taxing increase past my limit - I'm screwed. By set #4 today, I was toast. I'm aware that there are probably drills I can do to increase efficiency at higher cadences, but my gut tells me that there is something else going on here. It's related to why WaterRockets does his WR Intervals (or just the 1 minute test) on an uphill. Why? |
Gravity?
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Originally Posted by badfishgood
(Post 6827647)
Gravity?
Would an airplane that is putting out 20,000 pounds of thrust be exerting any more g-forces on it's occupants (take away air resistance, just for a moment) if it's headed upwards at 35 degrees or downwards at 35 degrees? Maybe it is that simple, I just don't understand why. Maybe I'm one of the few who actually experiences this. It's the power under acceleration, I guess, that is the culprit? Ugh.:twitchy: |
going uphill offers a consistent resistance - gravity and rolling resistance don't change much unless the grade does. You can get into a rhythm and evenly put out power.
on flats or downhill, the majority of the resistance is from the air. Winds, even on a calm day are variable, meaning your resistance is always changing. It seems much harder to maintain a certain power because it really is hard without constant resistance. don't believe me? hop on a trainer. With just a bit of practice, you can hold +/- 5w with ease |
Originally Posted by snoboard2
(Post 6827943)
going uphill offers a consistent resistance - gravity and rolling resistance don't change much unless the grade does. You can get into a rhythm and evenly put out power.
on flats or downhill, the majority of the resistance is from the air. Winds, even on a calm day are variable, meaning your resistance is always changing. It seems much harder to maintain a certain power because it really is hard without constant resistance. don't believe me? hop on a trainer. With just a bit of practice, you can hold +/- 5w with ease Thanks for the respones. :thumb: |
crank inertia. search for it on the wattage board. varies by individual.
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only the straightest and slightest of declines are "consistent." Usually going downhill you have to brake around turns (or not pedal anyway). You then accelerate out of the turns. Then it gets steeper and you speed up. Then it levels out and it's really hard to maintain that 38mph, then,then,then,
Forget holding a consistent wattage -- try to hold a consistent speed. It's hard enough when going 30+ for awhile. |
Also you tend to spin faster going downhill. Most people aren't as smooth at 120rpms as they are at 80rpms. That might make it tougher to generate the same wattage, but it IS possible. I find that spin-up exercises up to 200rpms+ will help make you smooth enough so that it's just as easy to generate the same power regardless of RPM. However, muscle-fatigue sets in faster at 80rpms and I can't hold that wattage for as long.
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Originally Posted by curveship
(Post 6828674)
crank inertia. search for it on the wattage board. varies by individual.
Originally Posted by kudude
(Post 6829068)
only the straightest and slightest of declines are "consistent." Usually going downhill you have to brake around turns (or not pedal anyway). You then accelerate out of the turns. Then it gets steeper and you speed up. Then it levels out and it's really hard to maintain that 38mph, then,then,then,
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
(Post 6829335)
Also you tend to spin faster going downhill. Most people aren't as smooth at 120rpms as they are at 80rpms. That might make it tougher to generate the same wattage, but it IS possible. I find that spin-up exercises up to 200rpms+ will help make you smooth enough so that it's just as easy to generate the same power regardless of RPM. However, muscle-fatigue sets in faster at 80rpms and I can't hold that wattage for as long.
Also, more importantly perhaps, is my inability to even spin up to 200 rpm. I need to find some drills to do to help that. Interestingly, I've raised my saddle a bit in the last two weeks (mm's - not much but very noticeable). I would think that that would help my ability to spin - but I haven't found it to make high cadences easy. Am I wrong in that assumption about saddle height? Anyway, thanks for the responses! :beer: |
Originally Posted by brians647
(Post 6827724)
Maybe I'm one of the few who actually experiences this.
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Originally Posted by brians647
(Post 6829673)
Will do. Thank you.
kudude, that makes sense, just trying to figure out the physiology behind it too. My strength now makes it easier (but not easy) for me to maintain wattage at a lower cadence. If I up my cadence too much, my cardio is a bigger limiter. So, what you're saying makes sense. Also, more importantly perhaps, is my inability to even spin up to 200 rpm. I need to find some drills to do to help that. Interestingly, I've raised my saddle a bit in the last two weeks (mm's - not much but very noticeable). I would think that that would help my ability to spin - but I haven't found it to make high cadences easy. Am I wrong in that assumption about saddle height? Anyway, thanks for the responses! :beer: |
if you're in the correct range for saddle height, a lower saddle will facilitate faster cadences.
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Originally Posted by brians647
(Post 6829673)
Will do. Thank you.
Also, more importantly perhaps, is my inability to even spin up to 200 rpm. I need to find some drills to do to help that. Interestingly, I've raised my saddle a bit in the last two weeks (mm's - not much but very noticeable). I would think that that would help my ability to spin - but I haven't found it to make high cadences easy. Am I wrong in that assumption about saddle height? Anyway, thanks for the responses! :beer: |
Originally Posted by brians647
(Post 6829673)
Also, more importantly perhaps, is my inability to even spin up to 200 rpm. I need to find some drills to do to help that. Interestingly, I've raised my saddle a bit in the last two weeks (mm's - not much but very noticeable). I would think that that would help my ability to spin - but I haven't found it to make high cadences easy. Am I wrong in that assumption about saddle height?
So in your case, if you were too low to begin with, then raising it would help. If you were too high, then lowering it helps. But more importantly, it's pedaling-technique and form that really determins spin smoothness. One-legged exercises helps you find the dead spots and trains the brain/muscle memory cycle to apply force more evenly around the circle. What happens with A LOT of people is that there's a dead-spot on their pedal-stroke and it requires force from the opposite leg to push up the other side. This is wasted energy that could've gone into pushing the bike down the road instead. If you have HRM and wattage meter, you'll find that by concentrating on your pedal-stroke to be smooth and activate the muscles to get through the dead-spot smoother, you'll find that speed & wattage will go up while maintaining the same HR. |
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
(Post 6832073)
What happens with A LOT of people is that there's a dead-spot on their pedal-stroke and it requires force ...
A lot of people just have slow feet. I dont work with a power meter but think you all may be on to something, ability to produce power at higher rpm. Do your intervals at same speed but smaller gear. |
It is all in your head.
Mentally we are used to riding about 20 mph on the flats, at least I am, when we are clibing at 8 or 10 mph, we are striving to ride at some pace closer to our normal speed and push our selves harder....and for the more knowledgeable rider, they know you will gain more time in a time trial by pedaling at a higher wattage on a climb than pedaling at the same higher wattage on a downhill. |
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
(Post 6832073)
What happens with A LOT of people is that there's a dead-spot on their pedal-stroke and it requires force from the opposite leg to push up the other side.
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Originally Posted by snoboard2
(Post 6827943)
going uphill offers a consistent resistance - gravity and rolling resistance don't change much unless the grade does. You can get into a rhythm and evenly put out power.
on flats or downhill, the majority of the resistance is from the air. Winds, even on a calm day are variable, meaning your resistance is always changing. It seems much harder to maintain a certain power because it really is hard without constant resistance. I find that I inadvertently ride much harder going down hill, but in bursts. The steady freddy nice resistance of a climb is much better for riding near threshold. A trainer is ideal, and I can maintain a pretty narrow power range while pedaling at 105-120 rpm, sometimes as little as a 1w variance but normally a +/- 10w range. cdr |
Wow, that's a lot of great feedback. I greatly appreciate all the responses.
Originally Posted by ElJamoquio
(Post 6829855)
Doubt it. I'm good for an extra 20-30 watts uphill over longer distances. I'd always attributed it to better muscle positioning, and constant feedback of power output (you slow down much more noticeably).
Originally Posted by brittle
(Post 6831528)
I recently lowered my saddle by about 1cm, and my cruising cadence immediately jumped from ~90-92rpm to ~98-100rpm. I think you've got it backwards. (Though the lower saddle doesn't make it any easier (or harder) to spin smoothly above 125 or so, which is about my (pathetic) limit.)
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
(Post 6832073)
It really depends upon where your saddle-height was to begin with. Optimally on my track-bike I have saddle so that there's 10mm of gap between my heel and the pedal (with leg-straight and pedal furthest distance from saddle). On my road-bike, there's a 5mm gap between heel and pedal.
So in your case, if you were too low to begin with, then raising it would help. If you were too high, then lowering it helps. But more importantly, it's pedaling-technique and form that really determins spin smoothness. One-legged exercises helps you find the dead spots and trains the brain/muscle memory cycle to apply force more evenly around the circle. What happens with A LOT of people is that there's a dead-spot on their pedal-stroke and it requires force from the opposite leg to push up the other side. This is wasted energy that could've gone into pushing the bike down the road instead. If you have HRM and wattage meter, you'll find that by concentrating on your pedal-stroke to be smooth and activate the muscles to get through the dead-spot smoother, you'll find that speed & wattage will go up while maintaining the same HR. Or, to put it a different way, if my strength is pedal force and not cardio capability, what side should I be erring on for the road saddle setup - low or high? Cater to my strength, or compensate for my weakness? With force as an asset, am I going down the wrong road by worrying about cadence/rpm? (I know I need to worry about it somewhat, just trying to put it into context w/ overall training). Lastly, how much one legged drills should I incorporate if cadence/dead spots are a limiter?
Originally Posted by carpediemracing
(Post 6834083)
I find that I inadvertently ride much harder going down hill, but in bursts. The steady freddy nice resistance of a climb is much better for riding near threshold. A trainer is ideal, and I can maintain a pretty narrow power range while pedaling at 105-120 rpm, sometimes as little as a 1w variance but normally a +/- 10w range.
cdr |
Originally Posted by brians647
(Post 6834501)
I just don't know how other riders maintain power in longer intervals with the hills we have here in CT. I figure if you're riding for 5 minutes something will likely change incline-wise. Good for training, I guess.
I had to turn around one day when it started pouring and I didn't want papers in my wallet to dissolve. I found myself consistently going either 400-600w or 0w on the slightly-downhill road, maintaining 250-300w on the flats and 300+ on the slight rises. My average ended up a good 40w lower, about 200w. My heartrate stayed higher, 170 bpm, and that was totally consistent, like I meant to do it (lol). It might be that you'll need to find an industrial park or similar (mall parking lot when it's closed?) and ride loops. Or time trial up a road that goes into NY (seems to be longer stretches of road up there). One-legged drills - I found them to be slightly helpful, after two-three sessions where I do a maybe 2-3 x 1 min on each leg, I find that one legged drills don't do much for me. I can spin pretty fast on rollers with one leg and I think I was doing 600w with one leg on the trainer. It'll let you figure out how "pulling up" feels, that's for sure. I find I have a LOT more speed with a slightly higher and very forward saddle position (combined with a low bar position), not pedal speed but bike speed. I think it has more to do with torso-ground angle, leg-torso angle, bar drop, and available breathing room. My pelvis tilts forward just a bit, letting me flatten my back better. I used to do this at an even more extreme but all sorts of things would go numb - my hands, crotch, my vision would double/triple (cricked neck), etc. My position is less extreme now. I'd say pedal force is my strength, not rpm, but I can spin fast if necessary. My cardio is suspect to say the least. My max rpm on the spin bike was with 170mm cranks and the seat dropped all the way down (286 rpm). But with 175mm cranks and the seat similar to my normal height, my max rpm dropped into the low 240s. On my bike, with no weighted fixed gear wheel and the seat up to my "race height", it drops down to about 205 rpm. cdr |
Originally Posted by brians647
(Post 6827724)
Do you think it's that simple?
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Would the effective gear ratio play into this at all?
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Originally Posted by bidaci
(Post 6847993)
Would the effective gear ratio play into this at all?
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