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broken steerer tube

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Old 08-11-08, 07:20 AM
  #1  
MDcatV
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broken steerer tube

On yesterdays team ride we were doing a hilly loop. There is a short but steep punchy climb that we all sprint to the top of for some reason. A team mate who is the best climber among us, but probably the worst sprinter jumped at the bottom of the pitch and went down like he was shot. He was beside me to the left and I somehow avoided the exploding bicycle parts going across the road. I thought either his cleat or chain broke, but as it turns out his steerer tube snapped in half and his handlebars broke right off of his bike. Think George Hincapie at P-R a couple years back except it happened during a hill sprint.

Aside from GH at P-R, I've not heard of this ever happening.

Broken collarbone for the rider, who's an orthodontist so he'll have a tough time putting braces on kids for the next few weeks.

Fork was a Wolf fork made by True Temper (standard fork on Cervelo R3s and Carbon Soloists). Complete product failure.
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Old 08-11-08, 07:24 AM
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yowza, sorry to hear that... had he crashed on it before?
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Old 08-11-08, 07:26 AM
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The insert may not have been installed correctly...

There was a lot of discussion about this...

http://forums.cervelo.com/forums/t/1348.aspx

http://forums.cervelo.com/forums/t/638.aspx
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Old 08-11-08, 07:32 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0mBMLQU2wk

Rolls eyes.
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Old 08-11-08, 07:41 AM
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here is the bike in question

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Old 08-11-08, 07:45 AM
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holy cow
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Old 08-11-08, 07:48 AM
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Jesus, did it snap at the top of the tube?
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Old 08-11-08, 09:33 AM
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ugh. that stinks. glad he wasn't more badly injured.

overtightened stem perhaps?
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Old 08-11-08, 09:39 AM
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If it broke at the top, where the stem attaches, it's an installation issue. Cranking down on the pinch bolts will crush/crack the steerer and it will fail eventually. Seen it twice here in town...
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Old 08-11-08, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by damocles1 View Post
If it broke at the top, where the stem attaches, it's an installation issue. Cranking down on the pinch bolts will crush/crack the steerer and it will fail eventually. Seen it twice here in town...
I don't have a torque wrench so I use a mini tool to tighten the bolts, I keep the tool straight and when I feel I can't turn it anymore that way without effort I just give it a quarter turn and it's nice and snug.
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Old 08-11-08, 11:48 AM
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The Carbon Bikes Are Revolting!!!!
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Old 08-12-08, 12:35 AM
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left it out in the sun for too long...

lucky it just broke... any more time in the sun and it would of resulted in an massive explosion that would of covered you and your friend in carbon shards...


be afraid... be very afraid.
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Old 08-18-08, 09:36 AM
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Another Cervelo failure? In the National Championship nonetheless? Not good for Cervelo's PR, that's for sure.

http://www.cyclingnews.com/road/2008...s/USPROcrit084
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Old 08-18-08, 09:37 AM
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Not Cervelo failure; Wolf fork failure.
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Old 08-20-08, 02:27 PM
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these forks are now being recalled!

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08368.html
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Old 08-20-08, 02:41 PM
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and



is the way to go.

You really need a very special torque wrench (not the kind you get at Sears) to dial in the very small torques needed for clamping the stem onto a carbon steerer. One my one bike with that I run a Ritchey 4-Axis stem and the Ritchey torqkey is designed to give you the 5 N-m spec.

The carbon assembly paste helps keep things from slipping at these very low torques.

The pair will run you about $20 from PBK and is worth the $'s.
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Old 08-20-08, 03:11 PM
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Not familiar with the Wolf forks but I know the Reynolds and Cannondale forks come with a "deep" stem cap, one that slides into the steerer tube and prevents the stem from pinching the steerer tube.

A friend of mine had his fork cut down (by a Cannondale dealer no less) and they put on a different cap so they wouldn't have to drive the star nut thing down. By doing so they removed the deep cap, the supportive one. I told my friend to go back and get the original cap/bolt.

That and that Ritchey clicker tool will help prevent broken steerers.

On our tandem we have a steel steerer and I'm keeping it that way. On my Giant TCR (with "aero" forks, not the skinnier current ones), I replaced my forks because they were both so sketchy. One was slightly compressed - it had a 1" steerer - and one had an alum steerer.

Sorry to hear about your teammate but I'm glad it wasn't anything worse.

cdr
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Old 08-20-08, 03:18 PM
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As stated theres a recall

http://cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08368.html
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Old 08-20-08, 03:23 PM
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Steerer tube breakage was not uncommon when I raced in Belgium (rough and cobbled roads).
Just another reason to purcahse equipment that is strong, over light.
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Old 08-20-08, 03:27 PM
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Ruh, roh.
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Old 08-20-08, 03:52 PM
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Lithuania
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how many times can we post a link to the same recall?
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Old 08-20-08, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Lithuania View Post
how many times can we post a link to the same recall?
As many times as we need.
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Old 08-20-08, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing View Post
Not familiar with the Wolf forks but I know the Reynolds and Cannondale forks come with a "deep" stem cap, one that slides into the steerer tube and prevents the stem from pinching the steerer tube.

A friend of mine had his fork cut down (by a Cannondale dealer no less) and they put on a different cap so they wouldn't have to drive the star nut thing down. By doing so they removed the deep cap, the supportive one. I told my friend to go back and get the original cap/bolt.

That and that Ritchey clicker tool will help prevent broken steerers.

On our tandem we have a steel steerer and I'm keeping it that way. On my Giant TCR (with "aero" forks, not the skinnier current ones), I replaced my forks because they were both so sketchy. One was slightly compressed - it had a 1" steerer - and one had an alum steerer.

Sorry to hear about your teammate but I'm glad it wasn't anything worse.

cdr
Still have the old 1" steerer forks handy?
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Old 08-20-08, 04:17 PM
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(insert retro-grouch rant here)

eh, how many grams exactly would an aluminum steer tube weigh?
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Old 08-20-08, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
I don't have a torque wrench so I use a mini tool to tighten the bolts, I keep the tool straight and when I feel I can't turn it anymore that way without effort I just give it a quarter turn and it's nice and snug.
The steerer tube, stem, and bars are probably the most likely to have the most catastrophic failure mode. Probably a good reason to stick to alu, but since I went carbon I got a "Torque Key".

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