wfrogge

What PT hub is that? Comp?

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/ro...Power+Tap+Sale

Psimet2001 

It's the new bottom of the line. It has a steel axle and is fairly hefty and wired. IIRC. Still....I looked at that deal as well this morning thinking about passing it around to friends who don't have PT's

merlinextraligh

Cycleop's lowest end power meter. Other than being wired, and weighing 576 grams, it looks like it works as well as any other PT.

[edit Psimet you beat me to it.]

seanmdo

Wired...but, not bad if you can stomach it. Heft is OK if you are training with it though. I train with with a heavier wheelset than I race with. I wouldn't race with it though (not just the hub, but that wheel either) since I have other wheelsets at my disposal.

wfrogge

Hell I race on a 32h wired PT as it is.

Creakyknees

hmmm... been considering getting one of the Neuvation PT wheels... but this one looks good n bulletproof. too bad it's wired.

PT owners, help me out: what's the real world pro/con for wired / wireless PT?

Grumpy McTrumpy

It's the old Pro version. I have one and cannot say what the differences are between it and the wireless version.

I do tend to prefer wired cycle-computers due to RF interference problems.

That seems a good price for a new one. You might find the same thing used on ebay, but maybe not save much money.

tharrel1

The new Comp does not have HR monitor.

heads up!

If you can get over the unsightliness of the wires themselves, and don't mind installing the receiver on multiple bikes, and weight isn't an issue, there's basically no downside. All the data is there.

This is a dang good deal. That said, I paid even less than $660 for a used PTap SL 2.4 on a 32h Open Pro rim (w/DA cassette and rubber! Screaming deal). Given the choice between new wired version or my 2.4, I'd take the 2.4. I like wireless and like how it's so much easier/cheaper to add to a multiple bikes, all you need is a mounting bracket for the computer.

merlinextraligh

I have a wired PT. Con's of the wired Powertap, you have 2 wires cluttering up your bike, and you can't run it with another head unit such as a Garmin or an Ibike Aero. And you need a wiring kit (about $60) for each additional bike.


If you don't plan to run it with a Garmin, and aren't OCP about looks, I don't see much downside to a wired PT.

wfrogge

I havent used my HR strap for 6 months with my PT.

Grumpy McTrumpy

does it just not come with a HR strap? or is it truly non-compatible with the standard cycleops HR strap?

Doggus

Pro: I move it between my racing bike and my cyclocross without issue of wires.

If you plan to leave it on one bike and can stand the wire running from the back tri, I see no reason not to.

merlinextraligh

^ I'm betting it would work with a Cycleops coded strap. My bet is that the Comp uses the same wired 2.4 head unit that other wired powertaps use. But its just a guess.

tanhalt

IMHO, that's not a "deal breaker". I never wear a strap anyway...power is all you really need

As to the questions of the pros/cons...the only con is having to get separate harnesses for a second or third bike if you want to switch it amongst a couple.

I actually think it's funny that it's called "wired"...since there's still a "wireless" connection to the hub itself. It's just that the receiver is on the end of a harness instead inside the head unit "External Receiver" would be a more accurate description...

That IS a heck of a deal...and I'm glad to see that harnesses and head units I can use with my old yellow cap PT Pro will be around for awhile longer :-)

Oh yeah...I'll be willing to bet that one could drop the weight of that hub if they swapped on the alloy freehub body. I would stick with the steel axle though, instead of the 12mm alloy one.

Let's put it this way...I'd choose that over the other options at the same (or similar) price point (such as the Polar CS600 or the iBike models) ANY day.

tanhalt

If you set the cadence to "hub sense", you can eliminate one of those 2 wires

Besides, as my friend Robert Chung likes to say "cadence is a red herring"

heads up!

Yes, that's a no-brainer.

merlinextraligh

True. One of the bikes I have set up for my PT doesn't have a cadence sensor. However, I've found the hub based cadence to be a bit less accurate, particularly at lower watts.

SushiJoe

I've already got a Polar HRM anyway.
Pondering... pondering...
(PS - I think the "roll eyes" emoticon looks more like "pondering;" consequently, I am using it here as thus.)

MDcatV

that's a really good price for what is a good powermeter on a great rim. it's the set up I have, if the wires are installed well, it looks pretty clean. only complaint I have is that the wire running from the sensor to the head unit is really frail, using zip ties will eventually pinch/sever the wire and then needs to be replaced. attaching with tape doesnt look as clean IMO, but doesnt fubar the wires.

I'd buy that in a second if I were looking for a power meter, that's less than I spent for a used one last november.

merlinextraligh

It's about made me to decide to hang on to my used wired SL. At that price new, I'm thinking that I can't get very much for mine used.

tanhalt

That's true...and I've also found that the "rounder" your pedal stroke, the less reliable the hub-sense cadence is as well.

But, let me ask you this, how do you use that cadence information?

merlinextraligh

I really don't use it that much. The one annoyance is when I'm doing fast pedals (120 rpm in a low gear) If I do it on the bike with just hub cadence, I know its reading high, and I tend to want to cheat.

Otherwise I mostly just use it as a reminder to keep my cadence up, which I can tend to let drop if I'm not working very hard. But it's accurate enough for that.

Notice I haven't bothered to replace the cadence sensor on the bike that doesn't have it.

tanhalt

The small clear tape strips that Saris supplies work best, but you do end up with a limited quantity of them. The trick to using zip ties is to make sure the wire is "nestled" in the "crook" formed where the tail of the tie enters the head...and DO NOT tighten the tie too much. It only needs to be snug enough to keep the wire from moving by itself.

kudude

With the CC wheel, I assume I'd just need a computer, download cable of some sort and a wiring harness. Is that correct?