+1, it's like those dicklicks on the road that step on the gas to pass you only to slam the brakes as soon as they get around you. It only gives the perceived notion that they've just saved time.

No. Sideways is slow on pavement, the only place it works is on sprint car ovals, and they do it for braking, not to help cornering. Watch them when they are accelerating, dead straight.

OK, you're getting there. Entry speed is everything on an underpowered anything. On something with a lot of power, it's merely very, very important.

For a bike or underpowered car, you have to be comfortable rolling as much speed as possible across the center of the corner. There will be a point where you need to be accelerating, but you end up compromising that to some extent to be able to float more speed across the center.

On something overpowered (the Viper is a good example, because their cornering is mediocre compared to their forward acceleration), You still work to carry a ton of entry speed, but your compromise comes earlier in the corner. In this situation, you can give away (quite a bit of) mid-corner speed to get the car pointed earlier in the corner and go to the throttle sooner. The most common mistake drivers do with an overpowered car is trying to roll too much speed across the center and then applying the throttle slowly, to avoid wheelspin. The correct approach, nearly always, is to not worry at all about mid-corner rolling speed, get the steering out of the car, and go to throttle very quickly. The point at which you initiate throttle is not important. The point at which you reach full throttle is vitally important. This is directly applicable to your FSAE car, especially since most of the corners are ridiculously tight. You'll be amazed that a car that was understeering now suddenly handles quite well.

You're right that car racing ideas transfer over to bikes. It's the application of the principles that's tricky. If you're clipping pedals consistently, then you're probably not carrying enough entry-to-midcorner speed. If you were carrying more, then you wouldn't feel the need to pedal. Just like the guy in a car who doesn't carry enough speed into the corner and then goes to a 10% 'maintenance throttle'. If he carried more in, the he'd be completely off the gas and have a car that worked better. Once the bike straightens up 5%, then pedal away.

As most people would tell you, you can have pedal strikes and not crash. They happen all the time, but don't go looking for them. Sooner or later, they will catch you out.

WRT clipping pedals, some bike/pedal combos will strike earlier/easier than others. If your bike has a low bb, long cranks and wide, thick pedals, then you'll clip a pedal easier, but it won't be as dangerous since the bike will be more upright when it happens. If your bike has a high bb, short cranks and modern pedals with generous cornering clearance, then you'll be leaned over farther before the pedal touches down, and it will cause a nasty crash when it happens.

Also, now that you've clipped a pedal several times, you should know how far you can lean before touchdown. You should also know when to coast for 1/2 second to avoid a hard pedal strike. You now know something that will let you corner faster with more safety. Use it wisely.

Easy in, hard out.

exactly.