acortez

If you were building a race bike for crits and road races (< 65miles) which would you choose? Also factor in that I am in my first year racing (Cat 5). I really want to build something up but I am afraid if I go with a carbon frame I could snap it in two with one wrong move. I hear good things from the CAAD9 but I also can get a carbon frameset for around $800 (NEO Exile), and carbon has more bling factor. I would like to get the build in the 16lb range. Lets hear it.

ted ward

Go for carbon, it's better. If you're on a strict budget the CAAD9 is probably your best bet, but you aren't. Pedal force has a pretty good deal on a frame with rival under their group buy section.

acortez

Do you have any experience with Pedal force frames?

fauxto nick

I'm in your position and I'm going t aluminum. I'm going to race what I can afford to replace within a reasonable amount of time. Plus ****ty carbon frames don't have any bling factor... who's to say this $800 carbon frame is as good as a $1100 aluminum frame?

I've come to the conclusion that carbon is just as strong as aluminum, it just fails differently, much more instantly than aluminum.

I figure (from what i've seen and read) that if you crash an aluminum frame and a carbon frame in the same situation and crack say the chain stay on the carbon frame you're going to at least have dented heavily the aluminum chain stay, so in the end both frames will be shot... you'll just be able to ride the aluminum home.

The reason I'm going with aluminum (most likely a Cervelo S1) is because with crash replacement I could get a new frame for probably around $700ish which I could replace without putting myself in financial hardship. Sure I could go with a budget carbon frame but who's to say there's going to be any benefit in going carbon.

I've done the math and with the money saved by going with a high end aluminum frame vs a good carbon frame I could buy carbon tubulars, some dura ace 7900 components and have my bike in the 16 lb range.

That works for me but you gotta do what you gotta do, all I know is after I saw some kid come out of a crash with his brand new frame cracked in half earlier this season I started feeling uneasy about riding carbon in crits.

Hocam

I have a friend who saved and saved and saved, bought a Tarmac with dura ace last spring, crashed it 4 months later in a crit.

Now she's on a CAAD9.

tanhalt

I applaud you on your analysis and selection of the S1 as a good "replaceable" race frame

However, I'd reconsider your desire for carbon tubular rims, especially if it's for just weight savings...

On top of that, SRAM Force shifters and derailleurs actually weigh less as a set than DA 7900 by ~25g and are significantly less expensive...heck, Rival set is even less expensive and only weighs 6g more than DA 7900 for the shifters and derailleurs. MUCH better "bang for the buck" IMHO

ridethecliche

CAAD9 frame costs 400-500 to replace in the event of a crash. I think I'm going to stick to mine...

When my 105 stuff wears out, I'll either buy ultegra or Rival depending on how much I have to replace. I only need new shifters and a new RD.

Either way, I'm hoping I don't have to do it for another year. All my stuff works for now, and that's all I really care about...

Edit: If I had to redo it, I might have bought the Soloist (now S1). The ability to 'make' the bike into a decent TT bike is advantageous. I still love my 9 though

fauxto nick

I really really fell in love with my team mates six 13 this weekend. He usually rides a R3 but for a rainy crit he brought out his six 13, it looked beautiful, he had some Zip 808's on it with dura ace I think, thing was as light as a stock R3.

I wish I could find one of those used or new old stock. I like it because the chain stays are all aluminum but the top and down tube are carbon.

fauxto nick

I have been for sure, if I can find a good deal for a pair at like $800 I'd consider it but I'm not going to be racing a new pair of $1500-2000 EC90 Aero's thats for sure.

As far as the dura ace goes I say dura ace because the S1 comes with full ultegra which I am totally happy with but it comes with a crappy compact FSA cheapo crank. I figure a huge place to save weight would be in a new crank and since I'm going to be buying a 53/39 with the appropriate crank arm length anyway I figured I might as well go dura ace 7800 or find a deal on a 7900 crank.

dmb2786

just get a damn cheap bike and ride it. if you wanna be cool, get a cool bike. if you wanna ride, ride.

ridethecliche

That's why I bought the Soul 4.0's. I wanted some aero wheels and didn't want to pay the premium for carbon or the weight. If I get some aero carbon wheels, I'll just use the souls as daily drivers.

I rode with them for the first time on sunday at a crit and I didn't notice any huge difference, but I'm pretty sure they did something since I finished 14th in a 3/4 crit and it was only my 3rd race as a 4. I haven't really ridden much lately either. Bleh.

It's a good raceday psychological boost, if nothing else. But in any event, they do make a difference realistically so it's a double whammy!

fauxto nick

Frankly at the moment I'm more concerned with training so I was looking at a power meter before anything and some coaching but I've decided that I'm in a financial situation right now where I could get a new bike relatively easily and quickly. I might not be in that situation again so I figure I'll take care of the bike right now and worry about the smaller things later.

ridethecliche

Honestly, I'd say power meter before new bike...

fauxto nick

I was going that route (I know i'm a yo yo when it comes to decisions) but I've decided to take care of the bike first because it's the biggest investment and in the next 6 months it will be easier to make that purchase than next year. Also I've decided to take it easy since this is my first year and really decide what I want to do with my racing and what I want train for next year before I invest in power. I'm going to read some books on training with power and learn some stuff before I go make that investment.

I figure if I continue to race it'll be great to have a new bike and a power meter but if I say take a bad fall this year and decide racing isn't for me then I won't have much use for a power meter but I'll still be feeling my new bike.

texascyclist

buy this for $897:


Sell the groupset, wheels and saddle

add 09 sram rival, selle italia slr (or cheap copy), and buy some inexpensive soul wheels like the S4.0:

fauxto nick

no

texascyclist

alrighty then

To the OP: the scott speedster is a unique, stiff, aluminum frame. Through hydrofroming, you get some shaping which you normally see only in carbon frames. If you don't believe me and you think I deserve a "no" response, see what these guys have to say too.

This is an inexpensive way to get a great frame new for super cheap. As for wheels, I would purchase some hand built open pros on DA hubs for my first season. However, I was trying to throw out something that could be raced on initially and turned into a trainer set next season. Another inexpensive option is the Fulcrum Racing 7 wheelset. Wiggle had them selling for change a while back.

tanhalt

I like your thinking

captnfantastic

buy a Le Champ sl for $1200 and shift your focus to racing well. You crash? that's only a $280 frame and fork replacement. Anything else happens... you should have lots of money left over to keep you rolling for a solid year. And you will be able to pay for race fees

oh and you can easily get a le champ under 16 lbs. They advertise weight at 16.5 stock.

acortez

How would the Scott Speedster compare to a CAAD9? This seems like a tempting build. What else would you upgrade on the Scott Speedster?

rydaddy

Good frame, actually. I bought one as a parts donor bike and ended up rebuilding it for racing. No other frame would have improved my race results.

MONGO!

I got a good deal on a nice carbon frame or I'd be on alu and liking it.

If I crash my carbon I'll get a CAAD9 and race that until our next team order.

Hida Yanra

+1 to this one

To the OP: Hey- I lived in the 505 until about a month ago, but if you are just looking for a race frame send me a PM and I'll see if any of my guys on my old team can hook you up.
It works like this- I know the guys you will see at races. You will see several guys in the cat5 crits on new Orbea Orcas and PTed 404s. You will see guys riding 80's bikes with downtube shifters. The bike has nothing to do with how you race.
Seriously- even if you do the crest race in june the bike weight won't determine anything of consequence.

My experience with Cat5 in NM was that it was sketchy enough to make me glad I was racing alum. I seriously doubt that any frame over any other frame at this point in your racing career will make any sort of difference in your finishing. I raced a low-end Allez w/ a Tiagra triple and did just fine.

So- Buy a frame+parts- any combination will do
Throw a leg over and work the cranks till you cross the line first.

In between races- Work your group-riding skills, positioning in the pack, learn which wheel to follow, and get back to the frame question in a year or two.

Oh, and show up for the Lobo ride. Saturday and Sunday, 9am (group leaves around 920) by the lobo at central & stanford. Depending on the race schedule, good racers will show up (among others, some ex-national champs). They are quite willing to teach you the important stuff. If you can stick with the group on a regular basis and you can contest the sprints- you will do fine in Cat5.

acortez

To be honest I have a Allez right now with Tiagra but a double. I totally understand where you are coming from. I know the bike is not going to make a difference but I know I will love building it. The thing is that I love to tinker and build things and I have the fever to build up a bike. Another thing, is the guys I usually ride with all have mid to high end bikes and I must admit I sure would like to have something similar. I will definitely try to make the Lobo ride in the next couple of weekends. Do you ride the Lobo ride?

topflightpro

I just picked up an 03 Specialized S-works frame off craigslist for $100. I built it up with a collection of used parts I had and stuff off eBay and craigslist. In total, the bike cost me about $500 to complete, and that's the bike I plan on racing.