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The 41 refugee thread

Old 10-10-11, 05:50 PM
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Green Loctite.
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Old 10-10-11, 05:56 PM
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Have a look in the 41, there was a lovely thread on that exact problem...Priceless...upteen number of pages of back and forth BS when the answer is green loctite (just as shovelhd stated)
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Old 10-10-11, 06:39 PM
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It's exactly what it was made for. Brilliant.
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Old 10-10-11, 07:25 PM
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And the first place loser is...............................
https://www.flickr.com/photos/retroredesign/5480644264/

Originally Posted by kindablue
BB30.

Mine squeaks occasionally. I stripped it apart, lubed it, and it still squeaked. Magically it stopped a week or two later.

Thoughts/opinions on the BB30? I was told that it is notorious for making noise.
...................sorry graphs.
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Old 10-10-11, 07:48 PM
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I'd use Loctite 641 retaining compound. It's what FSA recommended for their cranks that had loose tolerances at the crank arm/spindle joint. "LoctiteŽ 641™ is a controlled strength retaining compound that is ideal for cylindrical parts that require disassembly. Recommended for maximum diametral clearance of 0.008".

The green Loctite 290 is a thread locker. It could work but this is not what its made for, while it's exactly what 641 is made for. I've used it on loose crank-spindle joints and it works very well.
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Old 10-10-11, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ericm979
I'd use Loctite 641 retaining compound. It's what FSA recommended for their cranks that had loose tolerances at the crank arm/spindle joint. "LoctiteŽ 641™ is a controlled strength retaining compound that is ideal for cylindrical parts that require disassembly. Recommended for maximum diametral clearance of 0.008".

The green Loctite 290 is a thread locker. It could work but this is not what its made for, while it's exactly what 641 is made for. I've used it on loose crank-spindle joints and it works very well.
thanks!
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Old 10-10-11, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ericm979
The green Loctite 290 is a thread locker. It could work but this is not what its made for, while it's exactly what 641 is made for. I've used it on loose crank-spindle joints and it works very well.
290 is a very specific thread locker at that. It's very thin and wicks into joins without disassembly. If you're going to take the thing apart, then 641 is the way to go, but if you want to just stick some on the outside and see if the squeaks go away, then 290 might be a better choice.
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Old 10-14-11, 04:31 PM
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hi there guys, i sort of impromptu decided to sign up for a race this coming sunday at noon. This will be my first race so of course i'm very excited to participate, but i am a novice rider so i have a few short questions i wanted to ask you racing gurus.
First off all some info on the race itself: it's a crit style race (2,2 km lap) for 18 laps, so 39,6 km. Expected time is 1 hour so 39,6 km/h or about 24 - 25 mph for an hour. we have 75 signed up riders in my class. height difference is listed as 18 meters which seems rather high for a dutch course so i don't know if those 18 meters are height gained or total height difference covered.

1) I still intend to ride tomorrow, what type of riding should i do? I was thinking a relatively light ride, like 1 or 2 hours of easy pedalling going over 1 semi-serious hill where i can put some effort in, should i try to do some short periods of higher intensity in there without killing myself as well or not?

2) should i try eating a little more carbs saturday during the day/ at dinner / before bed / whenever?

3) Basically i leave at 10 am on sunday for a very easy slow ride to the course (about 15 miles) then i will be signing up and warming up a bit before the race which starts at noon. What type of preparation should i do before this? big breakfast at 8, early morning pasta? i don't have a clue about nutrition basically. Maybe you are willing to detail your race preparation for me?
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Old 10-14-11, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by gerundium
hi there guys, i sort of impromptu decided to sign up for a race this coming sunday at noon. This will be my first race so of course i'm very excited to participate, but i am a novice rider so i have a few short questions i wanted to ask you racing gurus.
First off all some info on the race itself: it's a crit style race (2,2 km lap) for 18 laps, so 39,6 km. Expected time is 1 hour so 39,6 km/h or about 24 - 25 mph for an hour. we have 75 signed up riders in my class. height difference is listed as 18 meters which seems rather high for a dutch course so i don't know if those 18 meters are height gained or total height difference covered.

1) I still intend to ride tomorrow, what type of riding should i do? I was thinking a relatively light ride, like 1 or 2 hours of easy pedalling going over 1 semi-serious hill where i can put some effort in, should i try to do some short periods of higher intensity in there without killing myself as well or not?

2) should i try eating a little more carbs saturday during the day/ at dinner / before bed / whenever?

3) Basically i leave at 10 am on sunday for a very easy slow ride to the course (about 15 miles) then i will be signing up and warming up a bit before the race which starts at noon. What type of preparation should i do before this? big breakfast at 8, early morning pasta? i don't have a clue about nutrition basically. Maybe you are willing to detail your race preparation for me?
Ride light and relatively short (your ride sounds good). Eat what you normally eat. Warm up before the race, but don't overdo it.

or the more complete answer is make sure you are rested, and that your body is working like it normally does. Don't bother introducing new foods or training now. After a few races you'll develop a routine that works for you.
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Old 10-14-11, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kindablue
Ride light and relatively short (your ride sounds good). Eat what you normally eat. Warm up before the race, but don't overdo it.

or the more complete answer is make sure you are rested, and that your body is working like it normally does. Don't bother introducing new foods or training now. After a few races you'll develop a routine that works for you.
correct.
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Old 10-15-11, 03:32 PM
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thanks for the advice guys. did a pretty light ride and felt good. I'll report back how it went, i am kind of expecting to just get dropped out of the peloton after 10 min though we'll see.
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Old 10-15-11, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gerundium
thanks for the advice guys. did a pretty light ride and felt good. I'll report back how it went, i am kind of expecting to just get dropped out of the peloton after 10 min though we'll see.
You're doing it wrong.

You should expect to ride as hard as you can without blowing up, hide in the field for as long as you can, and finish upright without taking anyone out.

Now go out there and do it.
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Old 10-16-11, 08:48 AM
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little race report.

Course had quite a bit of altitude gain and a lot of turns. When they called out start numbers to go up to the start i pulled the short string because we were the last group to get up to the start. This meant i had to start from the rear of the race already.
So they sound the bell and the race instantly starts at full speed, through the beginning it went reasonable but being in the rear of the pack meant i had to put on a full-out sprint after every turn to get back to the group. I didn't have the power to move up any more and the continued sprint intervals i couldn't keep up. got dropped after like a lap into the race, but this was more or less expected because of my limited training. I wasn't the only one of the people who got dropped, there were two dudes behind me and i waited for a few seconds to try and start up a little group to ride as far as possible with. When they caught up with me one of the two pulled through pretty hard, i jump on his wheel but he's going too hard for me so i let him go. then i look back and guy number three is way behind again :S
Kept riding as hard as i could solo but after 5 laps i got lapped by the pack and was pulled from the race. made it a total of 6 out of 18 laps. Next time i'll finish the race, just need more hours of training and it should be doable.

eventual speed of the race was 25 mph. Pretty damn fast if you ask me, My race class was non-license holder so the lowest of low.

overall i was happy i participated though, it's just more motivation to train damn hard so i can keep up with the pack next time!

EDIT: oh and i stayed upright and didn't take anyone out. When we were warming up we already saw a pretty horrifying crash. There was a little uphill section and a guy in front of us did a cartwheel there and ended up faceplanting. Grim sign of what's to come, there were multiple falls during the race.
Worst one was a guy who apparently blew a tire near the front of the pack in the final sprint, took out 5 or 6 riders.
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Old 11-21-11, 07:13 PM
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Hand wringing time for a new hub, key here is longevity so no bitex, or novatech. Weight saving would also be nice as i'll be racing on it. I can get the following hubs at discount:

White Industry H2, 252g: $225
CK Classic (killer bee sound), 264g: $260
CK R45 racing hub, 215g: $313.65

For the $90 difference between WI and CK R45, i can upgrade the spokes on a wheel with WI with CX-Ray spokes ($56 more)
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Old 11-21-11, 07:38 PM
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White should do you just fine. Alchemy is pimp though.
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Old 11-21-11, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by echappist

For the $90 difference between WI and CK R45, i can upgrade the spokes on a wheel with WI with CX-Ray spokes ($56 more)
You'll save some weight, too.
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Old 11-21-11, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jwible
White should do you just fine. Alchemy is pimp though.
I love my Alchemy front. I think it might be negative weight. Anti-matter.
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Old 11-22-11, 01:56 PM
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related question on spokes: when do you round up and when do you round down?

spokes usually come in even sizes, and i have the NDS spoke 0.6mm longer than an available size and the DS spoke 1.1mm longer/0.9mm shorter. I'm thinking of rounding down on the NDS, but what should i do for the DS?
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Old 11-22-11, 02:18 PM
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I always round down. Especially with thin/stretchy spokes like CX-Rays and swaged round spokes.
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Old 11-22-11, 02:24 PM
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but is 1mm too much? i guess not really in grand scheme of things?
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Old 11-22-11, 02:51 PM
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We should all get together and send "Bob D" a present. Exactly what and how we can do it is something I don't know, but he does deserve at least our gratitude and recognition.

I rarely venture into the 41, but when I have I have witnessed BD trying to educate the folks over there. It is often not pretty. And he shows more patience than I would.

Perhaps we could elevate him to BF sainthood, if such a thing existed. We do have a "pope" (Pcad, possibly self-proclaimed), so why not a saint?
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Old 11-22-11, 08:35 PM
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more wheel building Q's:

can someone recommend a good spoke length calculator? The two that i used (sapim and wheelbuilder.com) gave different answers from what wheelpro.co.uk gave. When i built my powertap, they all spit out answers that were very close so that it didn't matter in the end, but now the former two are giving me lengths about 2mm longer on each side than the latter.
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Old 11-22-11, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mollusk
We should all get together and send "Bob D" a present. Exactly what and how we can do it is something I don't know, but he does deserve at least our gratitude and recognition.
too true.

Also, Echap - go WI, you won't go back.
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Old 11-22-11, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mollusk
We should all get together and send "Bob D" a present. Exactly what and how we can do it is something I don't know, but he does deserve at least our gratitude and recognition.

I rarely venture into the 41, but when I have I have witnessed BD trying to educate the folks over there. It is often not pretty. And he shows more patience than I would.

Perhaps we could elevate him to BF sainthood, if such a thing existed. We do have a "pope" (Pcad, possibly self-proclaimed), so why not a saint?
Any particular event associated with this post?

Originally Posted by echappist
more wheel building Q's:

can someone recommend a good spoke length calculator? The two that i used (sapim and wheelbuilder.com) gave different answers from what wheelpro.co.uk gave. When i built my powertap, they all spit out answers that were very close so that it didn't matter in the end, but now the former two are giving me lengths about 2mm longer on each side than the latter.
First off, 1mm is not too much. You have plenty of threads, and in my experience with the thinner spokes, going to exact measurements pushes threads out the bottom of the spoke by 1-2mm. No problem with that, but clearly there's room to go shorter.

I use spocalc.xls along with the DT Swiss calculator until I get answers that agree.
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Old 11-23-11, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by waterrockets
Any particular event associated with this post?
I just happened to have been reading this thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-Carbon-Dilema
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