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The 41 refugee thread

Old 08-05-10, 09:14 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
As you suggest KOPS is a neutral starting point and a good place to put beginners.

The real issue here is that it doesn't account for femur/tibia ratios.

I can't pull the exact number out of my arse anymore (and would be VERY appreciative of anyone who could remind me) and I believe the theory was somehow attributed to or adhered to by Hinault.

The idea is that there is a ratio to consider between these two bones. Riders who fall on the femur dominant side of the equation (see Jocylen Lovell) tend to run lower saddles, have a slightly more rearward position and tend to ride at a lower cadence.

Riders who are Tibia dominant favour a slightly higher and more forward position. They also tend to ride at higher cadence and be on top of the gear a bit more. It's been my observation that these riders also tend to be more toe pointers (heel up) than previous riders who are much more likely to drop their heels (nice tie in to your previous post, non?) and power across the gear.

Seriously, if anyone can recall where this comes from I'd love to revisit this information.
i can well believe this femur tibia thing. I have long femur relative to tibia and even though my legs are short relative to torso, I have found that I pedal better with the seat further back and behind kops. What kept me originally from having the saddle so far back was lower back pain when it was pushed back but somehow that back pain seems to have gone. I guess my back or torso strength has increased and I can tolerate a more stretched out position. Fit is a funny thing. It keeps changing as your body changes.
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Old 08-05-10, 10:37 AM
  #177  
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umd, i can admit when i'm incorect. 8 pages and so far so good.
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Old 08-05-10, 11:07 AM
  #178  
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Is the Nokon cable housing a worthwhile buy? You can re-use the alu pieces over and over right, just replace the liner? [strike]Does 1 "kit" provide enough of to do both shift and brake cables?[/strike] (I see they sell both shifting and brake sets now)

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Old 08-05-10, 11:29 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
Is the Nokon cable housing a worthwhile buy?
I've reused the same Nokon pieces for years, however in some climates they corrode easily, so you may have to replace them more frequently.
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Old 08-05-10, 11:46 AM
  #180  
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I had silver and it corroded in a season, but I've used red ones for 2 seasons now without any problems. I reuse the outers and liners, and just put new cables in.
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Old 08-05-10, 11:50 AM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by umd
I had silver and it corroded in a season, but I've used red ones for 2 seasons now without any problems. I reuse the outers and liners, and just put new cables in.
do you notice a different feel braking, or is that marketing?
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Old 08-05-10, 11:52 AM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
As you suggest KOPS is a neutral starting point and a good place to put beginners.

The real issue here is that it doesn't account for femur/tibia ratios.

I can't pull the exact number out of my arse anymore (and would be VERY appreciative of anyone who could remind me) and I believe the theory was somehow attributed to or adhered to by Hinault.

The idea is that there is a ratio to consider between these two bones. Riders who fall on the femur dominant side of the equation (see Jocylen Lovell) tend to run lower saddles, have a slightly more rearward position and tend to ride at a lower cadence.

Riders who are Tibia dominant favour a slightly higher and more forward position. They also tend to ride at higher cadence and be on top of the gear a bit more. It's been my observation that these riders also tend to be more toe pointers (heel up) than previous riders who are much more likely to drop their heels (nice tie in to your previous post, non?) and power across the gear.

Seriously, if anyone can recall where this comes from I'd love to revisit this information.
Paul Kochli and the La Vie Claire crew I think. Something about putting the guys on a real-time adjustable bike hooked up to a powermeter while in a wind tunnel. this also led to Lemond's saddle height formula.
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Old 08-05-10, 12:07 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
do you notice a different feel braking, or is that marketing?
Definitely better shifting. Don't remember braking. I've used Nokons for so long now, it's pretty much all I remember. The nice thing is that since they are fully sealed they stay smooth longer than regular cables IMO. On the other hand, mine have been prone to creaking if I don't keep the lubed. Ironically the silver set that corroded never creaked
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Old 08-05-10, 12:10 PM
  #184  
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Some other cables to consider are Yokozuna or however you spell that. I love mine and they seem to be lasting quite a while.
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Old 08-05-10, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
do you notice a different feel braking, or is that marketing?
They're better with shifting. Braking, well, the squishiness has to do with a lot of things. Shifters though.. When I went from OEM Campy housing to Nokons, I decided the only advantage to electric shifting would be multiple (unlimited?) shifter locations (I didn't know about self-adjusting algorithms etc).

All my Nokons corrode. I have 4 or 5 sets of each (brake, der), have combined to get 3 bikes worth. I skip the steel coil housing under the tape on some (all? I forget) my bikes. Nokon kind of cheats and gives you a piece of steel coil housing for under the tape.

I think Nokons corrode once you scratch or chip the coating.
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Old 08-05-10, 12:15 PM
  #186  
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Another big-butt rider behind KOPS. I've experimented with moving my saddle up and forward, but I would never feel centered.

Re Cal racers on Spec/SRAM: Not everyone, but close to a plurality I bet.
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Old 08-05-10, 12:19 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by Flatballer
Some other cables to consider are Yokozuna or however you spell that. I love mine and they seem to be lasting quite a while.

I want to try those once the Jagwire cables need replacing; I hear they work really well with SRAM and improve shifting. Are you running them on SRAM or Shimano?
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Old 08-05-10, 12:20 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by caloso
Re Cal racers on Spec/SRAM: Not everyone, but close to a plurality I bet.
If by that you mean the most represented brand, then yeah, probably. Definitely not the majority though.
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Old 08-05-10, 12:22 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by ijen0311
What percent of the racers at a typical race are women? I want to get into it, but I don't want to be the only one. It would be intimidating.
In one of the local crit races (Mercier), which is really more like a short road race with 10km laps and lots of room..anyway, there is a girl in her 20's who races with the guys. She is fast!! Not only fast but she is aggressive and make breaks and pushes the guys around. I think she's amazing...and pretty.
You should try racing with the guys and see what happens!
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Old 08-05-10, 12:54 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by roadiejorge
I want to try those once the Jagwire cables need replacing; I hear they work really well with SRAM and improve shifting. Are you running them on SRAM or Shimano?
SRAM. I heard they were much better than SRAM stock stuff, and they are. It makes a good group (Force 2010) into an awesome group.
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Old 08-05-10, 01:08 PM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Flatballer
SRAM. I heard they were much better than SRAM stock stuff, and they are. It makes a good group (Force 2010) into an awesome group.
That's what I hear so I'm assuming they'll make the Rival I have even better.


I have a wheel related question for those who are savvy with wheel repairs. Recently I keep popping a spoke in the rear in one particular section of my ride which fortunately is not far from home. The road is very well paved and smooth, it's a slight incline that bears right and I usually sprint up to keep the momentum going but when I get in the drops and sprint I hear the sound of a spoke popping. They are Williams System 19s which have been fine until recently where I've had to replace spokes 3 times in the past few months.
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Old 08-05-10, 01:12 PM
  #192  
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My diagnosis: TOO MUCH POWAH!
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Old 08-05-10, 01:26 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by roadiejorge
That's what I hear so I'm assuming they'll make the Rival I have even better.


I have a wheel related question for those who are savvy with wheel repairs. Recently I keep popping a spoke in the rear in one particular section of my ride which fortunately is not far from home. The road is very well paved and smooth, it's a slight incline that bears right and I usually sprint up to keep the momentum going but when I get in the drops and sprint I hear the sound of a spoke popping. They are Williams System 19s which have been fine until recently where I've had to replace spokes 3 times in the past few months.
don't just replace the spoke; have the entire wheel checked for proper tension.
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Old 08-05-10, 01:37 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by roadiejorge
That's what I hear so I'm assuming they'll make the Rival I have even better.


I have a wheel related question for those who are savvy with wheel repairs. Recently I keep popping a spoke in the rear in one particular section of my ride which fortunately is not far from home. The road is very well paved and smooth, it's a slight incline that bears right and I usually sprint up to keep the momentum going but when I get in the drops and sprint I hear the sound of a spoke popping. They are Williams System 19s which have been fine until recently where I've had to replace spokes 3 times in the past few months.
Jorge, i run yokozuna shifter cables on my sram set up & i think it's great. you can get the shifter set for cheap from a store called outside outfitters. the only bad thing about them is that they are stingy on the cable, so the final bend to your RD is going to be very sharp, but that's more aesthetics than anything else.
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Old 08-05-10, 02:08 PM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Creakyknees
don't just replace the spoke; have the entire wheel checked for proper tension.

I'm probably under the incorrect assumption that they would check the wheel for proper tension because it just makes sense to do. I'll specify that then and see how it goes because I've become hesitant using that wheel set because I don't want to pop a spoke and end up stranded.


Originally Posted by mcjimbosandwich
Jorge, i run yokozuna shifter cables on my sram set up & i think it's great. you can get the shifter set for cheap from a store called outside outfitters. the only bad thing about them is that they are stingy on the cable, so the final bend to your RD is going to be very sharp, but that's more aesthetics than anything else.
Ah...thanks for letting me know. If the functionality is that good then I think I can sacrifice aesthetic appeal.

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Old 08-05-10, 02:15 PM
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I don't remember having any problems with the RD length. Was it the cable or the housing that was short for you? I have housing left over I think, but I don't remember if I had much cable left.
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Old 08-05-10, 03:04 PM
  #197  
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Jeez I leave for a week and we starting inviting them in?!

I'll admit it's a decent thread though.
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Old 08-05-10, 03:18 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by ZeCanon
Jeez I leave for a week and we starting inviting them in?!
They were clamoring for refuge. I figured a separate thread instead of answering a lot of questions in the twitter thread.... We wouldn't want that to go off topic now, would we?
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Old 08-05-10, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by roadiejorge
I'm probably under the incorrect assumption that they would check the wheel for proper tension because it just makes sense to do. I'll specify that then and see how it goes because I've become hesitant using that wheel set because I don't want to pop a spoke and end up stranded.
Not sure of spoke quality/life but spokes do break after a certain amount of time. Like light bulbs, rubber bands, if one breaks, the others may follow. Re-lacing the wheel may be a good solution. I helped an LBS with this the other day - apparently there's been a bad batch or three of spokes going through OEM stuff.
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Old 08-05-10, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by heckler
I never see full fingers at my races, have I just missed it? The scabs just came off my knuckles from when I crashed early July. My half finger gloves basically disintigrated on impact, though my bibs and jersey held up very well. Are there half fingers that offer more protections than others?
I like the protection of full-finger gloves in crits, but generally do road races with half-finger gloves because the extra dexterity makes it SO much easier to get stuff in and out of my pockets. Crits are so short and intense that I seldom drink much out of my water bottle, much less try to unwrap a bar or take a vest on or off.
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