The right Crit bike?
 

Sorry to post another thread with this played out ?, but all the threads iv'e found were pretty old and wasn't regarding 11' -12' models. I'm looking to get into mostly Crits with some raod rcng and am looking for the right bike. I have it narrowed down to these 4: Madone 4.5, Supersix 5, Felt F5 or if its worth it to spend the extra $ the R3.

Im 5'8", 180 lbs, more of a sprinter than climber. Thanks everyone!

Caad 10....much more disposable and a great race bike.

If that's the case you need the Super Six Hi-mod.

any of them would do...go with the shop that treats you best, and with a bike that fits.

All those mentioned above will suit you well.

RX won a TX state crit championship on a Fuji SST, and I've won a handful of crits on mine. Fujis seem to be a solid value. Several teammates and I are riding them with good experiences.

I don't think you're going to find much fault with any real race bikes in a crit. Make sure it allows an aggressive position. Consider narrower bars, as many prefer them for squeezing through tight spots in crits.

I thought of a Fuji. My father in-law has one and loves it but none of the LBSs carry them. I'd have to go to a major chain sporting goods store for Fuji and i'm kind of weary on that. Good to know about the narrow bar tip. Thanks!

I'm a much better criterium racer than a road racer. I ride a 2010 Felt F5 with DA7900 and it's the perfect crit bike for me. Super quick handling yet very stable, standard non-compact geometry, and reasonable weight (14.8lbs with race wheels). If I had to replace it right now I'd choose an F1.

Good luck, and remember, it's not about the bike.

I have heard this a few times before. Im on mid 90's Cannondale R800 2.8 now and its treated me good. Its not the lightest bike but compared to what I had before this, its a feather. Maybe Iv'e just fell into the "carbon is better than all" belief. But if i'm not spending the extra $ on Hi-Mod carbon, would a premium Alum. frame be better than a lower grade Carbon frame?

anything that doesn't feel squishy around a corner will do you just fine
all those bikes are good
pick wheels that can handle your power and weight
lightweight wheels are not going to do you much good
i'm 6'2" and race anywhere 175-195 lbs
i destroy wheels, so pick wisely

Get a bike that you like to train on and then race it. Winning and losing is more about training and race experience than equipment.

Worry about equipment details when you are losing races by inches.

Get the sexiest bike you can afford. You'll never stop riding it.

-CAAD10 owner

I had this
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99...6/IMG_0204.jpg

and this in my garage..

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99...6/PC060494.jpg

now I only own this…

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99...6/IMG_5212.jpg

I rode them both back to back for almost 3 weeks..both same size, same build up with parts, and in the end couldn't justify keeping the SS Himod…it's a great bike, but if i throw the SS down the road it's 2k out of my pocket vice $900 for a new CAAD10 frame. they are both so close in ride quality I just couldn't keep the SS. Being a crit racer myself, the extra 1 lbs or so just doesn't matter enough to sell me on the SS.

Crash, what bars are those?

And OP, my Alu Caad 10 has been great so far. The BB is a bit finicky, but a little squeaking now and again is my biggest issue.

I think they are FSA wingpro compacts? Either that or the Specialized short and shallow drop bar…very close to each other but the Spec is about 5mm shorter on reach.

i've got about 9k on mine and not a peep yet.

These.

My bearings needed replacing 3 months after I bought the bike. A few weeks later it creaks now and again. I hear the BB30 has narrow tolerances and that can happen now and again. (or so I've been told)
I've heard that either a certain type of locktite or changing the bearings will fix the creaking.

Either way I do love the frame and would still do it all over again given the chance.

No such thing as a "crit bike" and those that say they have one I stay away from. It means they plan on crashing it, hence why most make them out of aluminum. Get a decent race bike, don't be an idiot in the peloton and you'll be fine.

I have both a CAAD10 and SS Hi-mod....the SS jumps better and climbs better...the C10 has better roll speed, dunno way. Oddly enough, all my best race results have been on the C10.

Off topic-The SS ceramic BB bearings lasted 2 weks...replaced with FSA standards and lasted all year, quiet and spin great.

FWIW, aluminum being more crash-worthy than CF is becoming a myth. CF is the most economically repairable frame material, by far. I have a friend with broken chain stays on his Orbea opal. $400 at KirkLee repaired the stays and painted to match the stripes. Two years of racing has gone by, and he still loves the frame. If it was aluminum, it would be in the trash, and replaced with a frame that cost much more than $400.

Same boat as Crash, I went from a super6 to a caad10 and could not be happier. Budget friendly and race ready.

me as well.

OP - if you're asking this ? i'm assuming your a new racer. IMO the best bike for a new racer is the one you ride right now. if you want to buy a new bike for the enjoyment, i'd confidently recommend the caad10 to anyone, but as long as your existing bicycle is in good maintenance, dont think you need a new bike to race.

I totally agree with you. Like I said, most build them from aluminum even though it doesn't really matter at this point.

Fit, remember the fit. Mentioned above, I'll repeat it. Without a proper fitting bike you won't be happy. You may get by but you won't be happy.

Fit also changes as you get more fit... err conditioned. You'll start out with your bars slightly higher and closer, later moving to a longer, lower position. I helped one of my teammates adjust his fit after a couple years of racing. It was pretty dramatic.

As far as the old school myths on short wheelbase, steep angles, all that, I think it's phooey balooey. I subscribed to those ideas much earlier, but as I gained experience with different geometries and such I found that a predictable front end worked best for me - predictable enough to ride one or no handed, stable enough at 55 mph, turns in fine in a crit. For me that means a 73 deg headtube angle, about 43mm rake. It's a standard Cannondale geometry, and I'm sure it's on many other frames. It works and I spec'ed it on my two current frames.

I do think that a short chainstay helps with out of the saddle movement. Going from a 40.5 cm chainstay (standard length for most road bikes) to a 39 cm chainstay - world of difference. Even though I have a long wheelbase frame (due to the long top tube), it reacts very quickly due to the headtube angle and the short stays.

Unfortunately short stays are a custom thing. You can get an aluminum frame, custom geometry, for about $800 (I did), but if you're not sure about what you want, it'll probably be a better idea to start on a factory frame. If you have a 29" inseam like me (I'm 5'7", similar in weight to you) then you should consider a custom frame from the start. I have two frames - one has the 40.5 chainstay, my preferred setup has the 39 cm chainstay (I'm having the 40.5 shortened to 39 this winter). Other than that both frames are the same geometry-wise. My top tube is similar to a 56-58 cm frame, my seat tube is more for a 48-50 cm frame (it's actually closer to 40 cm due to my personal preference).

I pretty much only do crits. They are the best races for those that aren't fit but who know how to ride in a group. In pure fitness I suck, therefore I can't contest anything that goes uphill too long or involves time trialing. Pack riding and tactics, that's all me.

that's not what you said at all.