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Racer Tech Thread

Old 11-04-15, 07:16 AM
  #2751  
Duke of Kent
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Soft as butter. Wow.
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Old 11-04-15, 07:22 AM
  #2752  
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
Whatever you get, IMO the critical feature for a wind vest is a 2-way zipper (down from the top and up from the bottom).
Absolutely.
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Old 11-04-15, 07:49 AM
  #2753  
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I wish my wind vest had a 2 way zipper, the one I have that is basically a parachute does and im too cheap to buy a new one
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Old 11-04-15, 08:52 AM
  #2754  
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I don't bother with vests until it gets to the low 40s. Often, I will just wear two jerseys - it helps that I have some older jerseys that are large sizes. I also wear a light v-neck Under Armor base layer.
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Old 11-04-15, 10:20 AM
  #2755  
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Originally Posted by Doge
Just installed. Cleanest PM I've seen. We'll see how it works. Going to put PT in rear and these up front and compare.
Very interested to hear feedback on this after you use it a bit. This is a very interesting time for power meter development; we are about to hit a point where this data is very accurate, portable, and affordable (even for multiple bikes) for the masses.
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Old 11-04-15, 10:29 AM
  #2756  
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Originally Posted by Dunbar
Can anyone suggest a decent cycling vest that works down to ~50 degrees? I'm hoping for something with a race fit so it doesn't flap in the wind.
DOWN to 50 degrees?? Over 50 is too warm for a wind vest.

Seriously, I have a couple, from old team kits. One Giordana, one Castelli. Both are race fit, otherwise they use different approaches. The Giordana vest is mesh in the back and has pockets. The Castelli vest is unvented and doesn't have pockets, just zippers to allow access to your jersey pockets. If you're going to be wearing it at temps over 50 degrees, mesh back is probably the way to go.
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Old 11-04-15, 10:38 AM
  #2757  
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Originally Posted by tommyrod74
Very interested to hear feedback on this after you use it a bit. This is a very interesting time for power meter development; we are about to hit a point where this data is very accurate, portable, and affordable (even for multiple bikes) for the masses.
bePro installation feedback (they have a video). They use a locknut on the pedal shaft so you can align with the sensor. The locknut is about 3 threads thick and is to be tightened 35-40nm and they give you a big cone wrench thin tool to do it. It is not a torque wrench and I didn't measure the size (guess I should) but guessing 35-40nm could be tough and as it is thin I was very careful not to over tighten and strip the threads. I'd expect they have spares, but would be a pain to get them. So...if anything the pedals are not tight enough, we shall see.
The 2nd item is if the cranks have a recessed area for the pedals they want you to use a washer. These cranks are the Look 795 one piece and have triangular flat plates so you can adjust crank length. I chose not to use the washers and think the plates will be fine.
The software requires you plug in BOTH pedals via USB. You can electronically read the pedal serial number ANT+ ID etc. You can program the light (to stay on in use or not) and right/left correction. Also firmware updates are done through the software and you can shut down the pedals for storage so they are not broadcasting when moved on the shelf. They won't turn on again until plugged in if you electronically shut them down. Otherwise, they come to life on movement.
These replace the DuraAce pedals. They have very smooth low friction bearings. These pedals are light - 156g each and this is a great design. Obviously accuracy matters, precision more and we won't have that data till later. But very well made and designed and the Italians were responsive to my support issues in ordering (cc shutting down for fraud, Windows 10 Edge browser issues).
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Old 11-04-15, 12:21 PM
  #2758  
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Originally Posted by Doge
bePro installation feedback (they have a video). They use a locknut on the pedal shaft so you can align with the sensor. The locknut is about 3 threads thick and is to be tightened 35-40nm and they give you a big cone wrench thin tool to do it. It is not a torque wrench and I didn't measure the size (guess I should) but guessing 35-40nm could be tough and as it is thin I was very careful not to over tighten and strip the threads. I'd expect they have spares, but would be a pain to get them. So...if anything the pedals are not tight enough, we shall see.
The 2nd item is if the cranks have a recessed area for the pedals they want you to use a washer. These cranks are the Look 795 one piece and have triangular flat plates so you can adjust crank length. I chose not to use the washers and think the plates will be fine.
The software requires you plug in BOTH pedals via USB. You can electronically read the pedal serial number ANT+ ID etc. You can program the light (to stay on in use or not) and right/left correction. Also firmware updates are done through the software and you can shut down the pedals for storage so they are not broadcasting when moved on the shelf. They won't turn on again until plugged in if you electronically shut them down. Otherwise, they come to life on movement.
These replace the DuraAce pedals. They have very smooth low friction bearings. These pedals are light - 156g each and this is a great design. Obviously accuracy matters, precision more and we won't have that data till later. But very well made and designed and the Italians were responsive to my support issues in ordering (cc shutting down for fraud, Windows 10 Edge browser issues).
is the required 2-4 rides to "settle in" and report consistent numbers after installation a concern? it would be for me. i occasionally fly to races, but it might also be an issue for anyone who envisions swapping frequently between bikes.
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Old 11-04-15, 12:58 PM
  #2759  
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Originally Posted by revchuck
Replaced the cable, replaced the cassette with one with fewer than 100 miles on it, and doused the shifter numerous times with WD-40. No joy. I'm going to finish that can of WD-40 tomorrow. If that doesn't work, the 6600 shifters come off a bike I'm not riding and go on the rain bike. I hate to get rid of those shifters.
Just in case you're still futzing around with this shifter problem: I had the same thing happen on the right (rear) shifter of a DA7800 set. Tried everything but still had indefinite shifting that could be made almost OK up or down, but not both ways and shifting at the extremes was sloppy. Eventually noticed the shift cable was flexing between the shifter and the barrel adjuster. Made sure the shifter was properly tight to handlebar, replaced the barrel adjuster and the cable ferrules, but still flexing. In the end it was the shifter itself flexing right/left when changing gear, which changed the effective length of outer housing and therefore the pull tension on the inner wire. The shifter was just worn out and lacked the requisite rigidity. Proof was when I dropped a (used) 6600 shifter in with all the same components and cables and now had perfect shifting and no visible cable flex. FWIW.
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Old 11-04-15, 01:18 PM
  #2760  
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Thanks, @milmo. The fix turned out to be the RD hangar. It had apparently been bent and straightened once too often, and wouldn't hold the adjustment. A new one fixed the issue. Replacing the 7800 shifters with 6600s didn't fix it, but the 6600s are staying on because I haven't crashed them yet.
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Old 11-04-15, 08:09 PM
  #2761  
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I just ordered a weight for the sole purpose of statically calibrating my power meter. Pretty insane. I mean, I guess I can theoretically use it while doing exercises as well, but that's definitely not the primary reason I bought it.
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Old 11-04-15, 08:18 PM
  #2762  
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Originally Posted by scheibo
I just ordered a weight for the sole purpose of statically calibrating my power meter. Pretty insane. I mean, I guess I can theoretically use it while doing exercises as well, but that's definitely not the primary reason I bought it.
it's not insane, given the amount of hours people spend training and the attachment to #s many have.

the training thread is a good example of that.

if you do use it, be careful--if a calibrated weight gets rough handling, you can damage the very thing you paid for (e.g., chipping a few grams off of whatever surface). maybe not a huge deal but it runs counter to what you are hoping to achieve.

10 kilos, at least? hoping you went for 20+.
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Old 11-04-15, 09:58 PM
  #2763  
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Originally Posted by scheibo
I just ordered a weight for the sole purpose of statically calibrating my power meter. Pretty insane. I mean, I guess I can theoretically use it while doing exercises as well, but that's definitely not the primary reason I bought it.
which? I should check my slope.
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Old 11-04-15, 10:31 PM
  #2764  
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just some random one which had decent reviews, supposedly "35" lbs. the plan is to use a lab at work to find out how much it actually weighs, so i don't really care how accurate the claimed weight is. i dont think i need to be careful with it either given i can always re-measure the weight before each test, no?
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Old 11-04-15, 11:16 PM
  #2765  
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Originally Posted by scheibo
i dont think i need to be careful with it either given i can always re-measure the weight before each test, no?
true--but it's another step. many people don't have a lab-grade scale for 35+ pounds.
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Old 11-05-15, 12:20 AM
  #2766  
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Originally Posted by grolby
DOWN to 50 degrees?? Over 50 is too warm for a wind vest.
50 degrees, at night and it's cool/dry California air for the most part. I assure you it feels cold at 25+ mph with no sun to warm you up and I grew up in Chicago so I know cold. I've seen plenty of guys in team kit wearing them around here with temps in the 50's. But yeah, I'm talking about the lightweight ones and not the kind rated for freezing temps.
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Old 11-05-15, 05:12 AM
  #2767  
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Definitely get one with a double ended zipper and a mesh back. Avoid thermal material.
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Old 11-05-15, 06:28 AM
  #2768  
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Why the double zipper?
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Old 11-05-15, 07:13 AM
  #2769  
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It lets you adjust the venting without creating a ballon under your chin.
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Old 11-05-15, 07:16 AM
  #2770  
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And get stuff out of your pockets without dislocating your shoulder.
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Old 11-05-15, 06:09 PM
  #2771  
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thanks
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Old 11-05-15, 06:57 PM
  #2772  
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
is the required 2-4 rides to "settle in" and report consistent numbers after installation a concern? it would be for me. i occasionally fly to races, but it might also be an issue for anyone who envisions swapping frequently between bikes.
I didn't read past the installation section. But it gives believable numbers 1st min. I have to get the new tire on the PT to compare.
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Old 11-05-15, 07:05 PM
  #2773  
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As per my long winded post on the CTS thread, as a believer that training power and work should vary based on how the athlete is doing, I'm digging this.
Like SPO2 and HR it is portable to other sports (running, rowing).
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Old 11-05-15, 07:18 PM
  #2774  
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Originally Posted by Doge
I didn't read past the installation section. But it gives believable numbers 1st min. I have to get the new tire on the PT to compare.
i don't own them, but i read about them here.

this comment from someone who has been using them a while was interesting (or scary, depending on your POV):


curious for what you find, esp as the author of that site tends to do testing that focuses more on what triathletes want vs competitive cyclists (e.g., he seems to care mainly about average power over longer durations and not response to changes in power and cadence over shorter durations based on reading years of his reviews). that he is noting the settling issue is, well, noteworthy for that reason.
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Old 11-05-15, 07:19 PM
  #2775  
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Originally Posted by Doge
As per my long winded post on the CTS thread, as a believer that training power and work should vary based on how the athlete is doing, I'm digging this.
Like SPO2 and HR it is portable to other sports (running, rowing).
post up when you have some time with it.

there's another monitor that does non-invasive measurements of lactate; the variance has shown to be quite substantial based on where it is placed.
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