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Racer Tech Thread

Old 02-16-16, 08:33 AM
  #3126  
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
that 'stupid' stem is pretty useful for people dialing in their position. the reason there are no spacers allowed on top is that the top-cap is angled so that the whole thing sits flush when the stem's angle is adjusted.
so it adds flexibility in that it lets people adjust to a variety of stem angles but removes flexibility in the ability to move the stem up and down the steerer. how is that "useful?"
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Old 02-16-16, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
test: is the expander plug's bottom above or below the bottom of the stem? if it's below, you're good to go.

specialized now supplies as default it's longer expander plug...so unless someone is doing something very weird with spacers, everyone should be good to go. you don't really NEED the expander plug, but it does distribute the forces on the stem and prevent slight/accidental over tightening from instantly ruining the steerer. one could even do some JRA with a huge spacer stack to dial in position before cutting...if one is careful.
Naw, it's fine and I even used a torque wrench to make sure it was spec. I just meant it looks doofy. Like if you let a really tiny mountain goat wander around on the stem the little bastard would head directly for the spacer stack in search of whatever thing it is that mountain goats search for.
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Old 02-16-16, 09:44 AM
  #3128  
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Originally Posted by robabeatle
Sort of OT: I'm on a Cdale Evo which I had the stem slammed. Then I switched to a different stem which was a little taller where it clamps to the steering tube. I was in a very gentle crash, basically laid the bike over and when it was checked out, the steering tube was cracked. I am not sure if the crash caused the damage or if it was caused by tightening the stem onto a steering tube that was essentially a few mm too short.
@tetonrider: I have never heard of those sleeves; is that a diy type of thing or can they be purchased?
It varies by brand a bit.
Last two years we've had the Cannondale EVO, MASI Evolution, two S-Works - Venge and Tarmac. The last 3 made in Taiwan. The head tube for the Specialized bikes will not take the expander plug that the Cannondale and MASI would. In simple terms - the ID is smaller, the walls thicker.
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Old 02-16-16, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
On a side note: I once took a cut piece of steerer tube and attempted to crush it with a stem and a torque wrench. I maxed out the torque wrench, then went gorilla on it, it never broke.
yea i wouldn't imagine it crushing either. I think if anything the concern for some manufacturer would be that if the stem clamps 'air' then there is only one bolt holding it on, and the top cap is pretty aestethi for connecting the bars to the bike
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Old 02-16-16, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jdms mvp
yea i wouldn't imagine it crushing either. I think if anything the concern for some manufacturer would be that if the stem clamps 'air' then there is only one bolt holding it on, and the top cap is pretty aestethi for connecting the bars to the bike
Top cap is only necessary to pre load the headset in the designs I'm aware of. You could take the cap off after tightening the stem and have no mechanical change. You might have a steerer tube full of water if it rains, but the joint will work just fine.
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Old 02-16-16, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by wens
Top cap is only necessary to pre load the headset in the designs I'm aware of. You could take the cap off after tightening the stem and have no mechanical change. You might have a steerer tube full of water if it rains, but the joint will work just fine.
yea i agree with u, im saying the top cap doesn't offer much in the 'hold the stem down'. Is absolutely necessarily for preload.
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Old 02-16-16, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
I see nothing in my 2015 Tarmac's manual about that, but I'm sure they'd still take extreme issue with the stack I've got going on.
Specialized uses an expander plug to support the inner part of the carbon steerer tube. Carbon steerers have to be supported on the inside to resist the compression/torisional forces of the stem. This means that if you run a spacer above them stem that the expander plug won't be properly positioned to support the inside of the carbon steerer (it will be sitting too high). I prefer the way Cervelo does it since you can run as many spacers as you want, for as long as you want, without risking damage.

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Old 02-16-16, 03:14 PM
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I think that there is a boatload of anecdotal evidence that while this may be "best practice" it is certainly not absolutely necessary.
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Old 02-16-16, 03:27 PM
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basically spacers above or below the stem are ugly. #aestheticsareeverything
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Old 02-16-16, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mike868y
how is that "useful?"
the fact that some people use it? *shrug*
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Old 02-17-16, 12:31 PM
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i've had SPD pedals that came with my bike, but I was kind of wondering about spd-sl, or other more traditional road setup. based on what I've seen, any difference in power transfer might be pretty negligible, so I'm not really thinking of upgrading. but maybe someone can convince me otherwise...
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Old 02-17-16, 12:40 PM
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Power transfer is a non-issue, but I prefer the firmer connection and greater security you get from a road pedal when on the road. I started racing with SPDs back in the day and pulled out once or twice while sprinting. I don't think that's really much of a danger if you have things adjusted tightly and your form is good, after all I've been sprinting on SPDs in cyclocross and that's fine. But I still feel better on road pedals.

I'm not going to try too hard to convince you. If money is no object, yes, do it. If you're looking to be frugal, new pedals and shoes might not get you a lot of bang for the buck. I try to buy nice shoes, infrequently. It's worth waiting and saving to get something great you'll wear for a long while.
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Old 02-17-16, 08:40 PM
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admittedly tearing apart my only working bike in the middle of a busy week at work was not by best decision, but I was sick of fighting with my barely functioning old rear derailleur and I'm done boy. oh boy does 6800 feel nice. just hoping it doesn't explode when i ride tomorrow.
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Old 02-18-16, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mike868y
admittedly tearing apart my only working bike in the middle of a busy week at work was not by best decision, but I was sick of fighting with my barely functioning old rear derailleur and I'm done boy. oh boy does 6800 feel nice. just hoping it doesn't explode when i ride tomorrow.
Yeah, the new Shimano 11 mechnical is absolutely beautiful (This is coming from someone who still loves SRAM and rides Di2 11). Enjoy the buttery-ness, just make sure you remember to replace the cables every 5k miles or so. (Lest they snap inside the shifter.)
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Old 02-18-16, 10:19 AM
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yeah but snapping inside the shifter was an issue on 6700 as well.

first ride with the new stuff this morning...still some fine tuning to do on the fd adjustment but jfc this stuff is like magic.
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Old 02-19-16, 10:14 AM
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I may upgrade my power meter from a Stages to an Infocrank in the Spring/Summer. Thoughts? I get a 15% discount, so it'll be something like $1300.
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Old 02-19-16, 10:20 AM
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you can get a new SRM for $1600...
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Old 02-19-16, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by canuckbelle
I may upgrade my power meter from a Stages to an Infocrank in the Spring/Summer. Thoughts? I get a 15% discount, so it'll be something like $1300.
"InfoCrank" - what a great name! Who should have that user name? Certainly somebody!...lots of candidates, but who's the euro guy who's not around much anymore but always used to say, "Incorrect!"?
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Old 02-19-16, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by echappist
you can get a new SRM for $1600...


Smart man.
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Old 02-19-16, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by canuckbelle
I may upgrade my power meter from a Stages to an Infocrank in the Spring/Summer. Thoughts? I get a 15% discount, so it'll be something like $1300.
I've heard very good things about Infocranks.
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Old 02-19-16, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rapwithtom
"InfoCrank" - what a great name! Who should have that user name? Certainly somebody!...lots of candidates, but who's the euro guy who's not around much anymore but always used to say, "Incorrect!"?
That was botto, and he's American.
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Old 02-19-16, 01:55 PM
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I was wondering if this needs its own thread. Anyway - what rim width and profile do you use for what and why? Junior almost always chooses the lower profile (30mm) while many others are using the 60mm. I have not seen rim width matter so much.
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Old 02-19-16, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by grolby
That was botto, and he's American.
Technically correct.
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Old 02-19-16, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Doge
I was wondering if this needs its own thread. Anyway - what rim width and profile do you use for what and why? Junior almost always chooses the lower profile (30mm) while many others are using the 60mm. I have not seen rim width matter so much.
I use a set of 50mm wheels almost exclusively. They're 25mm wide and I run 25 (or 26) tires on them. Exceptions include a disc and deeper front wheel for the TT bike when TT'ing or a set of alloy wheels if I know I'll be in the rain.
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Old 02-19-16, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
Technically correct.
The best kind of correct!
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