I have a pair. They're good tires. Supple and nice round profile. They are supposed to have the lowest rolling resistance but I can't tell that by feel. They feel fast enough, but it's not mind-blowing, oh my god these are the best tires evar!

What tires feel that way then? :)

You joke.....

Used to use SRAM. Lovin the Di2

I think these are great tires.

I'll let you know when I find them.

Our store got in the max we were allowed to order. The 26s sold out in about three days; we still have a bunch of the 24s.

The S-Works Turbo tires are nice, especially at that price. Without the sale, I think they're a bit overpriced compared to some alternatives out now, but they have good road feel and grip, and have tested well for rolling resistance. I never really tested their traction in the wet, can't comment on that. Wear was about what you'd expect from a premium race tire, maybe better than some. Won't last as long as GP4000sII, but feel better IMHO.

As far as the widths, on modern rims (eg 18-19 interior width), the 24c will be 25-26 mm actual, and the 26c will be 27-28mm actual.

Finally got a chance to mount one of the S-Works tubeless 700x24s on my new HED Ardennes Plus wheels, it measured ~25.9mm wide when inflated on the 25mm OD rim. I'll mount the other today and add Stan's to both. Looking forward to trying these out.

Anyone figure out the clip-on aero bars to aero drop bars problem yet? Or should I just wrap the bar near the stem a few wraps and stick with IAB for a short TT at Killington?

can't help you with actually attaching aerobars but killington's TT is such that I imagine aero bars would be quite an advantage.

Is anyone aware of and tests/discussion on the energy loss in ankle movement in a rubber TT bootie? That vs a rubberized cloth covered one that is more flexible.

Similar topics for loss in energy for knee warmers would also be interesting, but I'm interested in booties.

Thanks for the info.

nope ... seems like such a subtle marginal gain that Team Sky would be one of the few groups to have tested it

Got to ride the new Sram eTap yesterday. A woman I ended up riding with had it and let me take it for a quick spin through the parking lot. It was neat. I've heard some people say the shifts aren't as fast, especially the FD, but they seemed perfectly fast to me.

Anyone getting rid of old TT gear? Wife agreed to share a rig.

size range? Seat tube and top tube, approximately?

Edit: got something.

So looking at the USAC rule book, 1I1e pertaining to the TT stage at Killington. I'm interpreting no positional restrictions. Is this true?


Bicycles must meet current UCI technical regulations atevents that select 17-18, U23 and Elite riders for internationalcompetition or national teams. All bicycles used in NationalChampionships (for age 17 and older riders) and NRC racesmust comply with the current UCI regulations. At thediscretion of USA Cycling, UCI rules may be adopted ormodified for Masters National Championships.

I have been on the lookout for a ~40 mm to 50 mm carbon tubular front wheel as my Enve classic 65 is just terrible in a cross wind and the braking leaves a lot to be desired. So, I see a Bonty Aeolus D3 5 (50 mm) on ST, lightly used, for $300 shipped. (all white decals and white spokes) The seller believes these were bought in 2011. I am wondering if the shape of the rim has been updated since that time as that is a 5 years ago now but I can't seem to find that info. And moreover, should I just keep searching for a more modern tubular as it seems the tech, esp. braking, has improved in in the past few years.

Any input would be appreciated.

*edit* seems there was an update. So I think I will pass on these.

Killington is a Category C USAC race, so while I haven't been briefed by the CR, I would expect no restrictions, within reason. Don't show up with a funny bike or some crazy morphological fit.

damn, just as we enter the meat of the season around here i realize some pretty crucial stitching on my shoes is failing. hoping the big S will warranty them but either way having to adjust to new shoes/trying to replicate cleat position is going to give me so much anxiety.

Find a GURU fit person. They have this cool cleat positional thing about the size of a clipboard where, if you have a Keo, Speedplay, or something else (Shimano? I don't remember), you put your cleat into an opening and there's a grid pattern around the opening. The grid sort of "places" where you shoe sits relative to the hole your cleat is in. You figure out where some critical points are on your shoe (heel, this stitch or that stitch). Basically you get a fore/aft + angle position for your cleat.

Then you put your other shoe in with another cleat on it and move the shoe around until the critical points line up with the same grid points.

I did this with my spare set of shoes and it worked well.

You can see the sitting to the left of the saddles in this picture, white shoebox size plastic things with cleat shaped holes in them. Looks like Keo, Speedplay, Shimano road, and Shimano MTB:

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...51&oe=57DCFE37

What kind of pedals and cleats?

thanks for the info cdr, didn't realize anything like that was out there.

shovelhd, shimano yellow