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Racer Tech Thread

Old 10-25-16, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tommyrod74
I like the Fi'zi:k superlight classic tape - lasts forever, and tacky when wet. Good stuff.
Originally Posted by SysteX
I'm a recent convert to the Zipp Service Course CX tape. Nice and tacky when dry, and doesn't get slick when wet. Only downside is the rolls are pretty short.
Thanks. I cross posted in Facebook and both tapes came up. I'm debating, but based on what I could use more of I may end up with some insulated bottles vs tape, at least from CC.
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Old 10-25-16, 02:33 PM
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I'll second the Zipp SC CX tape. Very nice stuff.

In a rush I bought some Grip Tec2 textured tape from Performance Bike ... it's good tape. Tacky and good texture.
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Old 10-25-16, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
This is Quarq number 2 that has died on me in about 4 years of use. They have a pretty decent track record in my book so far and seem to provide consistent data so if I am without one for a week, big deal. I realize that SRMs have a good track record but the same thing happened to his SRM about a month ago.
not sure who you are referring to in that last sentence (seemed to switch from first-hand to second-hand experience) or why SRM is a topic at all.

the battery cover on Quarqs have been sold as a feature but have also been a big pain-point for years.
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Old 10-26-16, 04:23 AM
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It was referring to you, as it has been relatively well established that you are a SRM supporter, seller, etc. But it was a weird tangent from my previous sentence.

Ultimately I am still happy with my Quarqs, I see no reason to sell. Also I am pretty certain that the battery door wasn't the issue on this one. Wasn't seeing any condensation inside of the compartment. The unit had begun to act strangely on days when it hadn't rained.
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Old 10-26-16, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
It was referring to you, as it has been relatively well established that you are a SRM supporter, seller, etc. But it was a weird tangent from my previous sentence.
i just didn't know why you brought them up. your post read like you were talking about someone (not me) who had a problem with a unit. i never mentioned another brand. it's a fine line between me expressing thoughts and experience vs being thought of as supporting only one brand. when purchasing questions come up, i'm very careful to express the fact that every product has pros and cons.

for reference, i actually sell/have sold/install/service 5 or 6 different types of meters on a regular basis. i can't separate the fact that i have an opinion (both from personal use and from a service perspective), but i think there is a misperception that my opinion is informed by what i sell (and a misperception that i sell/work with 1 type of meter) and not the other way around. the very reason i sell something -- anything -- is because of what i know the capabilities to be. i'm also lucky to not need to feed my family based on what i sell; it's mainly helping people, especially racers and friends, access a product they otherwise couldn't.

i've also been a product tester in the industry.

Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
Ultimately I am still happy with my Quarqs, I see no reason to sell. Also I am pretty certain that the battery door wasn't the issue on this one. Wasn't seeing any condensation inside of the compartment. The unit had begun to act strangely on days when it hadn't rained.
fwiw, in years with Quarqs i never saw condensation inside the battery chamber; the effects of water ingress were never *visible* to me -- just changes in behavior of the unit. the tough part is that it could take a while for problems to manifest. many of us here have probably had a phone or other device that got wet, worked for a while, then sometime later -- when we thought we were in the clear! -- got wonky.

water ingress is a real issue for any product that has to be open at some level (e.g., devices with a barometric altimeter); meters are not one of them, until the point where one wants to spec a field-replaceable battery.
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Old 10-26-16, 11:58 AM
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Is there anything that actually points to the battery cover as the issue with water and quarqs other than the idea that they are otherwise sealed? I've had quarqs die in the wet, but the o-ring and the grease on the battery cover threads has always been undisturbed.
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Old 10-26-16, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
Is there anything that actually points to the battery cover as the issue with water and quarqs other than the idea that they are otherwise sealed? I've had quarqs die in the wet, but the o-ring and the grease on the battery cover threads has always been undisturbed.
water's getting in. if it's not the battery cover, it actually implies a worse problem.

there is a known history of production issues over the years, though... like cold solder joints. could be anything, really.

(also, as we know any model PM of any brand can fail as these are tools often used in adverse conditions, so we can't really say anything conclusive about your one example.)

it's just generally true that the one area that is frequently opened/closed is the path for water to get in.
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Old 10-26-16, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
i just didn't know why you brought them up. your post read like you were talking about someone (not me) who had a problem with a unit.
I realize that I missed part of my sentence there. Was supposed to read: "I realize that SRMs have a good track record but the same thing happened to my friend's SRM about a month ago."
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Old 10-26-16, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
I realize that I missed part of my sentence there. Was supposed to read: "I realize that SRMs have a good track record but the same thing happened to my friend's SRM about a month ago."
Mine too, as well as my PC8.
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Old 10-26-16, 06:18 PM
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I'm Di2 wiring up the old MASI taking parts off the FELT DA2 TT bike. The new Di2 stuff is too far out.
Going to put the A junction box under the seat - so wire comes up through post. Seems like a much cleaner design. I may do this for the Venge too.
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Old 10-26-16, 06:47 PM
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I've got my junction box under my bottom bracket. Not sure how the mechanic did it, but I'm pretty happy with it there.
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Old 10-26-16, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by shovelhd
Mine too, as well as my PC8.
got some background on the pc8 stuff. it was an issue with a membrane from goretex related to the barometric altimeter. direct water wasn't enough to pass through, but water coming up, say, when a rider was going fast could push it through the barrier....then the membrane wasn't letting the moisture out.

it didn't show up in testing and general water exposure.

it was fixed quickly.

regardless, there's not too much of an argument w/r/t the quarq warranty shuffle. it's been said plenty of times, but any brand is going to have anecdotes out there of failure. when you start to see the history over 10, 20, 100 units, you see patterns emerge as far as what is failing and how frequently.
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Old 10-26-16, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Doge
I'm Di2 wiring up the old MASI taking parts off the FELT DA2 TT bike. The new Di2 stuff is too far out.
Going to put the A junction box under the seat - so wire comes up through post. Seems like a much cleaner design. I may do this for the Venge too.
it's a good spot. still easy to reach for charging and micro adjust, plus it generally won't get a bunch of crap on it.

Originally Posted by scheibo
I've got my junction box under my bottom bracket. Not sure how the mechanic did it, but I'm pretty happy with it there.
i don't like this spot as it's exposed and impossible to reach while riding.

i've mounted it on a FD a couple times--can still reach it during a ride if you need to.
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Old 10-26-16, 09:14 PM
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i didnt want it behind the saddle because i usually am riding with a saddle bag (sacrilege!) and it would interfere. maybe not an issue on a TT bike though.

how is it more exposed? maybe if i hit a rock, but it seems likely id hit the crank or chain ring first? still, more risky because its closer to the ground, ill give you that. no issues in a year of use so far though. also - why do i need to reach it while riding? to adjust the trim on the fly? thats a little advanced for me. putting it on the FD would be pretty cool though.
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Old 10-26-16, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by scheibo
i didnt want it behind the saddle because i usually am riding with a saddle bag (sacrilege!) and it would interfere. maybe not an issue on a TT bike though.
oh, i imagined he meant not so much *behind* the saddle as between the saddle and the post; at least that's how i've seen it done before. usually have to drill the post.

Originally Posted by scheibo
how is it more exposed? maybe if i hit a rock, but it seems likely id hit the crank or chain ring first? still, more risky because its closer to the ground, ill give you that. no issues in a year of use so far though. also - why do i need to reach it while riding? to adjust the trim on the fly? thats a little advanced for me. putting it on the FD would be pretty cool though.
exposed to water, if it's rainy/wet.

inaccessible is the issue for me. i have had to adjust on the fly. (if you don't know how to to it, you should--it's trivial.) can be relevant if you get a neutral wheel, but otherwise not terribly important.

something to consider--and dismiss if it doesn't apply.
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Old 10-27-16, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
oh, i imagined he meant not so much *behind* the saddle as between the saddle and the post; at least that's how i've seen it done before. usually have to drill the post.
Correct. Not sure how it will be attached. It adds over 1m of cable (weightweenie I am), but gets it out of the wind and looks better. It really was not much of a wind issue as it was smacked up against the head tube - but my mind was bothered by it. I went from the stem strap to hot glue and that seems to work, so I think this may be where there is no problem, don't fix it - for the Venge. But for the MASI - going to do it.

Anyway I have that TriRig brake coming for the Venge front. I'm trying to clean things up - up there. That becomes the TT bike. A whole other topic, but I rather like the TT bike being mass start legal (collegiate rules).
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Old 10-27-16, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Doge
Correct. Not sure how it will be attached. It adds over 1m of cable (weightweenie I am), but gets it out of the wind and looks better.
10cm of e-tube wire weighs about 1g, fwiw. do you need 1m? i'm assuming you mean total additional cable.

since you're talking full weight-weenie, if you wanted to minimize, couldn't you run left shifter to right shifter (so an additional 30cm or so), then you don't need any additional wire or junctions from the right shifter to a B-junction near the BB. add an additional 20-30cm to go up through the post from where the battery currently sits.

boom--there's 5g for you instead of 10g.

Originally Posted by doge
It really was not much of a wind issue as it was smacked up against the head tube - but my mind was bothered by it.
even though it doesn't *add* frontal area (A), my gut tells me that the shape would mean an increased in CdA. probably very small, but you're talking about small things already.
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Old 10-27-16, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
10cm of e-tube wire weighs about 1g, fwiw. do you need 1m? i'm assuming you mean total additional cable.

since you're talking full weight-weenie, if you wanted to minimize, couldn't you run left shifter to right shifter (so an additional 30cm or so), then you don't need any additional wire or junctions from the right shifter to a B-junction near the BB. add an additional 20-30cm to go up through the post from where the battery currently sits.

boom--there's 5g for you instead of 10g.
Very cool. Venge has sprinter shifters so number of holes might be an issue, but I think MASI gets no sprint shifters.
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Old 10-27-16, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Doge
Very cool. Venge has sprinter shifters so number of holes might be an issue, but I think MASI gets no sprint shifters.
DA9070 shifters have 3 holes, so you should have the ability to plug in sprint shifters AND run the left shifter to the right side, while still having a cable run from the right side out (to an A-junction, or a B-junction into the DT in your case).
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Old 10-27-16, 04:03 PM
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6870 doesn't though.
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Old 10-27-16, 04:53 PM
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STAC Zero

how does the pm version of this work
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Old 10-27-16, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
STAC Zero

how does the pm version of this work
Well knowing nothing of this device - but I was a magnetic's/hall effect guy...
Interesting. Maybe they record resistance and then can see speed by detecting movement. I don't know - but cool device. I think the resistance should vary based on the amount of metal in the rim.
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Old 10-27-16, 05:21 PM
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I think it's a bit silly, but they say "save your race tires" over and over. I don't really know many people racing on alu rims these days. Or keeping race tires on training wheels. still was intersting to me. you also have to add weight to the wheel.
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Old 10-27-16, 05:30 PM
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Many trainer power meters are just this internally. The tire is turning a plate working with magnets creating an eddy current resistance or brake. In this case the bike wheel is the disc and no flywheel (other than the wheel) is involved. Pretty established technology. Too bad it wasn't done pre-carbon. I think the flywheel effect would be missed.

Fun to see as this was my primary work early 80s - and I didn't think of it :-(

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current_brake
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Old 10-28-16, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Doge
Many trainer power meters are just this internally. The tire is turning a plate working with magnets creating an eddy current resistance or brake. In this case the bike wheel is the disc and no flywheel (other than the wheel) is involved. Pretty established technology. Too bad it wasn't done pre-carbon. I think the flywheel effect would be missed.

Fun to see as this was my primary work early 80s - and I didn't think of it :-(

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current_brake
some revered turntables, like the garrard, employed an eddy current brake.
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