thats the exact adaptor I use with Di2.

Sweet. :D

actually mine is black.. now that I look at the picture on my computer instead of the phone.

http://content.competitivecyclist.co...397/ONECOL.jpg

I have the older silver one on my carbon framed Redline with 6870. Works fine.

Wore my S Works Turbos down to the fiber tonight. Maxed out the life and then some.

What's the current recommendation for a decent winter tire? Gatorskins? GP 4 Season? Something else?

Anything but Gatorskins. They wear like iron...and grip that well, too. There are too many tires that wear well and have good flat protection while still providing good performance to settle for those nasty things. The GP 4 Seasons, OTOH, are pretty good, as are the Grand Prixs if you want to go with Contis.

When I wear out my S-Works Turbos I'm going to replace them with Turbo Pros. I'll be doing my last race this March, a mixed-surface race that's ~75% bad road and ~25% gravel, on my last set of Michelin Pro4 Endurance. When they wear out, that bike will go to Turbo Pros too. I don't have to worry about residue from snow mitigation stuff where I live so I don't need specific tires for winter, but do have to worry about dealing with bad roads and rain.

Cool, thanks. :thumb:
I run Micheline Pro4 or Grip version on the front and Contis Gp4ks 2 on the back. Lasts quite a while, and haven't had issues with grip on wet roads. Unlike with Turbos (plus they had lumps develop).

Gatorskins are slow af, but the chances of you getting a flat when it's like 20 degrees out are super slim. In norcal I'd probably just stick with gp4000sII's since there are places you can get them for really cheap and they will last many thousands of miles.

First few years of real volume on fast tires cost about 60-80 tubes. I train on Gatorskins now and have had one flat in the last 6 months. The only time I'll train in my GP2k's is for a fast group ride.

IMO, its a regional thing, 80% of my flats are goathead thorns, 10% pinches, and another 10% random road junk. I probably wouldn't ride gators in another region.

Eh ... for the cost and lack of real winter conditions, I may just throw on another set of S Works Turbos. I prefer the feel of those vs GP4Ks and the wear isn't that much worse.

Wha?! That's like a tube every 4 rides! Crazy!

those of you with wheels manufacturing outboard bb's, how do you replace the bb. do you press in new bearings or just get a new set?

I ride/train/race on Veloflex Masters 25s. Mostly because I like the gumwalls. I tried Vittoria but they flatted 5 times across 3 rides. I've used GP4ks, they were okay, but no gumwall. :)

I usually have a wheelset with Gatorskins for our Southern Illinois training camp every spring. Cinders will eat tires and the Gatorskins do reasonably well.

I haven't had to change the bearings yet, but will go that route when the time comes. I believe [MENTION=364302]Doge[/MENTION] has done this.

I have had it done by LBS.
It should be a good shop with a press and tools, no hammers.

Probikekit has Michelin Pro4 Endurances on sale. They are my go-to tire. Commuting tires you can race on.

http://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-ty.../11090762.html

They're excellent tires, but they've been discontinued. I'm sure there are a bunch still out there, though.

Bought 16 new 26 oz. bottles. Basically I'm tossing all my old bottles. They were probably 5 or 6 years old, so it's about time.

For a long time, I frequently got large bottles free here and there. But lately, all the free bottles I've gotten have been small ones. They're fine for racing, but for long training rides, I need a lot more to drink.

Yeah. My favorite all around tire. I bought 4 but I probably should have bought a bunch more.

Every now and then I still pour one out in memory of the Pro 2.

yes, the press tool costs $100. how much is the service typically?

I don't know. It was part of a change wheels, BB, cables. My guess is about $40 + bearings on its own.

that sounds pretty typical...

I'm pretty certain that I can rig up some diy set with washers and bolts from home depot, instead of their fancy machined gizmo, that will do the same thing for a whole lot less.

I'd agree. If we are talking a threaded BB adapter like wheels MFG.

If it is a press fit BB bearing holder you might push the holder out as well.

not necessarily. the dyes that they use all use the bb shell for support. it's either that or use a hammer :foo::foo::foo:, in which case, yes the shell will probably come out first. but the frame is never touched by any tools. but yea, mine came with threads.