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Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 19279207)
Why? I'm in my third year on $550 overseas wheels with zero issues. Just pick good components and plan on truing after the first 500 miles.
As for strong, light and fast, it's possible to get fast wheels under 1300 grams. I had a set of Zipp 404 10 speed wheels, 58mm and 1270g. However they were not wide. Adding width adds weight. So if you want light, snappy, and almost as fast, go narrow. |
Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 19279207)
Why? I'm in my third year on $550 overseas wheels with zero issues. Just pick good components and plan on truing after the first 500 miles.
As for strong, light and fast, it's possible to get fast wheels under 1300 grams. I had a set of Zipp 404 10 speed wheels, 58mm and 1270g. However they were not wide. Adding width adds weight. So if you want light, snappy, and almost as fast, go narrow. Reason I want 25mm wide is that my new race wheels are 25mm, and on new summer/race bike (that I still need to build :lol:), adjusting brake width is PITA, and I am lazy. lol |
So...got both the Metron 55s and the Reynolds 32s. *shrug*
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One can never have too many sets of nice wheels. :thumb:
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Went with the Metrons because they're bombproof, and I'll be confident railing rough corners on them...and the 32s because they're light and can do smoother crits and the hilly RRs on them.
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The weight of Metrons is suspect. The 81 tubular weight less then 55 tubular. o.O
I should weight mine seating in the box when I get home. :lol: |
I'm debating whether to go eTap. I can get a really good deal on it, but I'm still running 10-speed on my bikes. I still have new 10-spd cassettes and chains. Granted, I could use them on my second bike, since I'd only be upgrading one bike.
And, since I don't have a compact SRM, I have been going with a Sram WiFli RD and 11-32 cassette for my mountain trips, so I would either have to run WiFli all the time or buy the WiFli RD too. Any of you guys run WiFli all the time? |
wifli is just sram's version of the medium cage from shimano, right? the only difference would be that (provided they use the same springs) the longer arm would require more leverage to make the same tension on the chain, and as a result of a slightly less chain tension, the shifting suffers slightly. however, this different might not be noticeable, and they might use a stronger spring for the wifli. it depends
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Originally Posted by hack
(Post 19279532)
I've been thinking about grabbing a pair of these from far west for the TT bike. I've read some of the thousands of pages of info on them and in general the experiences have been good .. just seemed too good of a deal. I figure if it's on the TT bike and something goes wrong, I won't be taking others down with me.
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
(Post 19308323)
I'm debating whether to go eTap. I can get a really good deal on it, but I'm still running 10-speed on my bikes. I still have new 10-spd cassettes and chains. Granted, I could use them on my second bike, since I'd only be upgrading one bike.
And, since I don't have a compact SRM, I have been going with a Sram WiFli RD and 11-32 cassette for my mountain trips, so I would either have to run WiFli all the time or buy the WiFli RD too. Any of you guys run WiFli all the time? |
Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
(Post 19311162)
I ran WiFli all the time on my SRAM bike. Never noticed an issue. Personally I don't see a really good reason to not run it unless you are being really weight conscious about your bike. Gives you the ability to run larger rear cassettes if you need em which is a benefit in some of the races I did.
I've run two different WiFli derailleurs, and Apex and a Force. The Apex was terrible. The Force worked very well. |
Just a data point on tire/rim combinations - Specialized Roubaix Pro 23/25 tires on Hed Ardennes+ wheels measure 28mm wide. And they're pretty nice at 80f/90r too.
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
(Post 19311286)
My concern was not about weight. More about how well it functioned with smaller cassettes.
I've run two different WiFli derailleurs, and Apex and a Force. The Apex was terrible. The Force worked very well. |
What is the hardest drying tubular glue you know of? I'm going with Soyo so far. Anything else?
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Kind of old news at this point, but I forgot to post.
These wheels were publicly announced last week: Cycling Weekly Roval article. I was a tester for the wheels and have thousands of miles on them. They're a pretty worthy aero (and light) option. If anyone has questions, I might be able to help. I can certainly give first-hand experience that not many have (yet). |
We just sold a set of these at the shop where I work. They're really nice. I'm waiting for the 32s to come back in stock since I'm too slow for taller wheels to be of benefit. ;)
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I wish deeper wheels would come with a higher spoke count (the rovals have 21(?) spokes). Im sure I would be fine on them but the former fat kid that I once was (still at 200 pounds) has me a little worried about buying deep section wheels
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You should not worry. Today's rims and spokes can easily handle 200 pounds of hard racing. Be concerned about the build itself, not the spoke count. Buy name brand or custom built. Stay away from generic offshore.
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Originally Posted by Wylde06
(Post 19327965)
I wish deeper wheels would come with a higher spoke count (the rovals have 21(?) spokes). Im sure I would be fine on them but the former fat kid that I once was (still at 200 pounds) has me a little worried about buying deep section wheels
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Originally Posted by ancker
(Post 19329425)
And AFAIK you can't get a 21H Powertap.....
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So what is considered light these days? Not like super light climbing only wheels, but for general racing like crits?
How would these compare? Front: 712 Rear: 833 Just the wheels, without tires or cassette. |
Originally Posted by Wylde06
(Post 19327965)
I wish deeper wheels would come with a higher spoke count (the rovals have 21(?) spokes). Im sure I would be fine on them but the former fat kid that I once was (still at 200 pounds) has me a little worried about buying deep section wheels
Anecdotally: Every time I took them to the local crit I managed to go OTF for the whole race on them. It was definitely the wheels (And the bike, skinsuit, helmet, and a whole lot of IAB. I was definitely the aeroweenie). But yeah. My experience is that they are relatively light, aerodynamic, sturdy wheels. |
Originally Posted by UmneyDurak
(Post 19329851)
So what is considered light these days? Not like super light climbing only wheels, but for general racing like crits?
How would these compare? Front: 712 Rear: 833 Just the wheels, without tires or cassette. That's about where my race wheels are. I'm around 1575g total with a 20/24 build on 50mm rims. |
Originally Posted by UmneyDurak
(Post 19329851)
So what is considered light these days? Not like super light climbing only wheels, but for general racing like crits?
How would these compare? Front: 712 Rear: 833 Just the wheels, without tires or cassette. The M5 clinchers same width and profile about 1,660 (mfgs weight, not mine). |
Originally Posted by UmneyDurak
(Post 19329851)
So what is considered light these days? Not like super light climbing only wheels, but for general racing like crits?
How would these compare? Front: 712 Rear: 833 Just the wheels, without tires or cassette. I think max aero has been hit (or close to it), so the focus now is on reducing weight and improving handling (and related to that, delivering comparable aero but better handling and lower weight by reducing depth). There will always be a market for 64mm depth rims and such (I was going to say deeper, but the CLX64s really obviate the need for most everything beyond that). The tri-spoke wheels are still interesting for particular use cases. |
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