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Racer Tech Thread

Old 10-20-19, 08:24 AM
  #5876  
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Got it fixed. Finally no spacers in the crank shaft to avoid hitting the brake. Found a used direct pull. I have the bike as 1x so utilized the spare cable exit to route the brake that way. Reversed the side the pull acts from. Bingo.

Also, the Selcof pdq bars are on. The comfort change of the bull bars alone was worth it. Also, now instead of a fixed position I have adjustable parts. I also now own each stem length possible for a Bayonet system.

Next step is to ride it and adjust accordingly.

Pics after I ride it and confirm it works.
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Old 10-20-19, 08:48 AM
  #5877  
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Originally Posted by ancker
Yes. Love it so far.

I have a Red 22 carbon 165mm GXP arms paired to P2M NGeco crank, BB30 in my new S-Works Roubaix....what to do?
Popped out the CeramicSpeed BB30 bearings, pressed in the BBInfinite GXP/BB30 adapter, spins like mad. No creak, no fuss.

I even ordered the wrong one at first, got a no questions asked refund and relatively quick replacement of the right BB.
Awesome, thanks for the info!
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Old 10-21-19, 01:40 PM
  #5878  
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Originally Posted by Cypress
You're my manitou. I had to redo the bearings on two of my bikes last month because of RATCHA RATCHA RATCHA RATCHA

The Trek mechanic was standing there watching me bathe everything in red Loctite like
isn't loctite 609 green?
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Old 10-21-19, 01:46 PM
  #5879  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
isn't loctite 609 green?
Yessir. I like the 271 stuff for bottom brackets.
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Old 10-21-19, 02:00 PM
  #5880  
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Originally Posted by Cypress
Yessir. I like the 271 stuff for bottom brackets.
Do you have to heat the BB to pop out the bearings later? Even with 609/641 it requires quite a bit of force to get bearings out
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Old 10-21-19, 02:11 PM
  #5881  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Do you have to heat the BB to pop out the bearings later? Even with 609/641 it requires quite a bit of force to get bearings out
It takes a pretty good whack or two to get them out. I wouldn't heat it all because it's a Madone (bearings mounted directly into the carbon shell).
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Old 10-22-19, 08:50 PM
  #5882  
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This thread turned up when I searched for "trainer tires" I'm sure somewhere in the past 236 pages, someone mentioned them.

I need to swap a trainer tire onto 700cc rims and get my bike into the CyclOps trainer. What tire should or shouldn't I use?
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Old 10-24-19, 03:58 PM
  #5883  
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Originally Posted by TriBiker19
This thread turned up when I searched for "trainer tires" I'm sure somewhere in the past 236 pages, someone mentioned them.

I need to swap a trainer tire onto 700cc rims and get my bike into the CyclOps trainer. What tire should or shouldn't I use?
If you have old tires use up all of those first, can be run pretty much down to the belts. If not I like the orange contis personally
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Old 10-25-19, 06:19 AM
  #5884  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
If you have old tires use up all of those first, can be run pretty much down to the belts. If not I like the orange contis personally
This is what I do.

Honestly, I don't find that my trainer eats up tires that quickly. And I'm on the trainer a lot.
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Old 10-26-19, 06:47 AM
  #5885  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
If you have old tires use up all of those first, can be run pretty much down to the belts. If not I like the orange contis personally
I don't have any currently. At least, not in the size I need. I'll check out the orange contis, thanks.
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Old 11-13-19, 11:55 AM
  #5886  
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I want to upgrade/consolidate my wheelsets. I'll start by posting the "inventory":

-Renn disc, 11spd conversion, tubular, 23mm Corsa Speed tire
-HED trispoke all carbon, front tubular, 19mm track Vittoria on it
-Giant PSLR-1 wheelset, 11spd conversion, clincher, 4000s2's that need replaced, I think in 46mm, probably 2012 vintage
-Giant PA2 alloy wheelset, round spokes, I think 35 or 38mm, clincher, 2015 model year, I think about 23mm outside width? maybe 25mm
-Velocity USA A23's in a seemingly narrow width on the cross bike, looks like a Clydesdale build.......my cross bike was owned prior by a guy around 90kg

For now, I'm thinking of keeping the TT bike disc/trispoke. For good days and good pavement at my weight/speed that setup is fast AF for the money.

Money wise, none of it is worth a lot. The PA2's are 16/24 I think, which to me is too few for cross/gravel use on the front wheel.

Enough for all three of those sets..........I'd probably buy a set of brand new Jet 6 HED's and a brand new set of "chinabay" deeper section cross/all arounder wheels. I'd even be OK with a 20 count up front, that's the count that bothers me about the PA2's to convert their usage.

The reason for not keeping the PSLR's would be the tire sizes, I want to try out 25mm tires. All that CRR and comfort stuff. The PSLR's can certainly run them, but they're not optimized for that whatsoever. The reason on the Velocity wheels is wheel width and volume.

The only requirement here would be that I'd keep one setup for road, and one for off road. Also, I could maybe get the all-arounder off road setup TL. I'd love that. Kinda tired of getting flats on gravel and bumpy stuff on clinchers.

What would you do with that "stable"?

Last edited by burnthesheep; 11-13-19 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 11-13-19, 01:06 PM
  #5887  
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I'm assuming you're not also changing bikes, so even your gravel use would be with rim brakes?
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Old 11-13-19, 01:14 PM
  #5888  
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep
I want to upgrade/consolidate my wheelsets. I'll start by posting the "inventory":

-Renn disc, 11spd conversion, tubular, 23mm Corsa Speed tire
-HED trispoke all carbon, front tubular, 19mm track Vittoria on it
-Giant PSLR-1 wheelset, 11spd conversion, clincher, 4000s2's that need replaced, I think in 46mm, probably 2012 vintage
-Giant PA2 alloy wheelset, round spokes, I think 35 or 38mm, clincher, 2015 model year, I think about 23mm outside width? maybe 25mm
-Velocity USA A23's in a seemingly narrow width on the cross bike, looks like a Clydesdale build.......my cross bike was owned prior by a guy around 90kg

For now, I'm thinking of keeping the TT bike disc/trispoke. For good days and good pavement at my weight/speed that setup is fast AF for the money.

Money wise, none of it is worth a lot. Maybe $100 for the Velocity set. Maybe $200 in the PA2's. Maybe $300 for the PSLR's. The PA2's are 16/24 I think, which to me is too few for cross/gravel use on the front wheel.

If I could get the $600 for all three of those sets..........I'd probably buy an $900 set of brand new Jet 6 HED's and a brand new set of "chinabay" deeper section cross/all arounder wheels for $350. I'd even be OK with a 20 count up front, that's the count that bothers me about the PA2's to convert their usage.

The reason for not keeping the PSLR's would be the tire sizes, I want to try out 25mm tires. All that CRR and comfort stuff. The PSLR's can certainly run them, but they're not optimized for that whatsoever. The reason on the Velocity wheels is wheel width and volume.

The only requirement here would be that I'd keep one setup for road, and one for off road. Also, I could maybe get the all-arounder off road setup TL. I'd love that. Kinda tired of getting flats on gravel and bumpy stuff on clinchers.

What would you do with that "stable"?
Burial at sea. Also, read up on forum rules for selling stuff. One must have a premium membership and post in marketplace. I think this is ok, but do not turn it into a solicitation.
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Old 11-13-19, 01:40 PM
  #5889  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
This is what I do.

Honestly, I don't find that my trainer eats up tires that quickly. And I'm on the trainer a lot.
Same.
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Old 11-13-19, 01:46 PM
  #5890  
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I'm interested in the options of what I could replace them with, not selling them here.

People ask advice about n+1 and n-1 on the types of bikes they own, so why not wheels?

FWIW, the FS section here is so slow, I'd never even really list here anyway. ST and my local FB group is where I'd go for that. It doesn't make sense anyway to not do it local only if they're not worth much and shipping wheels is expensive.

Or........trainer wheels or giving a leg up to a local on the cheap/free
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Old 11-13-19, 02:11 PM
  #5891  
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IMO, the fastest TT setup in the disc / tri spoke assuming reasonable wind conditions and high performance rubber. For general mass start racing, I like the 45 mm rim depth and 22.5 mm rim width - Specialized, HED, Fast Forward, Zipp and etc. For steeper hill climbs the lighter the better but 45 mm are pretty good and IMO, optimal for most HCs. And one can use the 45 mm for time trials if windy.

IMO, deeper section wheels quickly become the equivalent of having a crooked knife in ones toolbox that is essential when you need it but one does not need it very often. And I do not like heavy wheels per se.
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Old 11-13-19, 02:23 PM
  #5892  
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Honestly, the benefits you'd gain by buying new wheels are going to be pretty small. It's probably not worth the cost or effort to sell and buy new wheels. You can certainly go with wider rims on the cross bike, but just be sure that your bike can run the larger tires. Also, if you really do like cross, what are the chances you upgrade to a disc-brake bike in the near future?
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Old 11-13-19, 02:49 PM
  #5893  
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That's a good point on the disc brake part. People seem to love their disc brake bikes for good reason.

I forgot that. Good point.

The reason I mentioned the 60mm stuff was if it was windy enough I could run the good roadie set on the TT bike in a race also. I'd currently relegate the front to one of the Giant wheels if the pavement was junk or really windy.

But, remembering the cross/disc thing throws a wrench in it. As I've no doubt that disc brakes would eventually be nice since I do like both cross and gravel. Both from a race standpoint and just day to day riding standpoint.

Considering that, I probably would rather send the money over towards that as a project eventually.

See, this is why you don't spend too much free time clicking links and looking at shiny stuff instead of thinking.
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Old 11-13-19, 03:11 PM
  #5894  
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep
See, this is why you don't spend too much free time clicking links and looking at shiny stuff instead of thinking.
Been on the wrong side of that too many times.
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Old 11-14-19, 07:37 AM
  #5895  
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Originally Posted by himespau
Been on the wrong side of that too many times.
Yes.

Also, pretty much every time I've sold a wheelset, I've found myself needing another wheelset not too far down the road.
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Old 11-28-19, 09:54 AM
  #5896  
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I notice the new shimano RD's go to 11-30 and have the matching cassettes.

It's about time for a cassette/chain on the roadie, not bad, but time to think about it. Is there any logic for someone like me having a road bike I race and do hammer rides with having a 50/34 setup versus a 53/39 or 52/36?

I think the only difference I'd notice is for longer local hills I may need to finally shift into the small ring. Hills here are 3min or less and often not very steep for long. Maybe 9% for a very short distance then overall 4-5%. I usually never leave the big ring on the hammer ride.

You all have more experience in this. Is there any real downhill speed gain, or flat riding efficiency gain?

Why's it matter? Is there something to it, or is it a "my peen is bigger" kind of thing?

I generally spin a higher cadence, which is why I probably don't notice it.
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Old 12-22-19, 10:18 AM
  #5897  
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burnthesheep I am no longer do mass start races but I do HC races either mass start or time trial from time to time. I have a 50/34 on my road bike and an 11 speed 11/32 cassette. I may switch to an 11/25 for some hill climb like the GMR that has a steady 6% grade or I am looking for a particular gear combination that yields the cadence I want for the speed I can maintain. The only time I would like a 53 on the front is for low cadence interval work on flat terrain and in general, I do that on my time trial bike. Setting up gearing on bikes seems to me race specific if one is going to optimize gearing selection. Big gear in the front and big gear in the back is the lowest friction and least drive train losses.
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Old 12-22-19, 10:24 AM
  #5898  
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My road bike has developed a clicking sound. I took it to the bike shop and they did a clean, lube check and etc. The bottom bracket bearing are going. The did a re-lube / clean and the clicking sound is less. I had them order an Ceramic Speed bottom bracket.

For training, I ride on GP4000s with light weight Specialized butyl tubes. I purchased some Michelin latex tubes and put them in for yesterdays ride. I thought the ride was much more supple for the same tire pressure. Wattage savings...who knows...probably saved a couple of watts at higher speeds. However, they lose about one PSIG per hour. So there is that.
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Old 12-24-19, 12:57 PM
  #5899  
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep
I notice the new shimano RD's go to 11-30 and have the matching cassettes.

It's about time for a cassette/chain on the roadie, not bad, but time to think about it. Is there any logic for someone like me having a road bike I race and do hammer rides with having a 50/34 setup versus a 53/39 or 52/36?

I think the only difference I'd notice is for longer local hills I may need to finally shift into the small ring. Hills here are 3min or less and often not very steep for long. Maybe 9% for a very short distance then overall 4-5%. I usually never leave the big ring on the hammer ride.

You all have more experience in this. Is there any real downhill speed gain, or flat riding efficiency gain?

Why's it matter? Is there something to it, or is it a "my peen is bigger" kind of thing?

I generally spin a higher cadence, which is why I probably don't notice it.
Older post, but I'll chime in. The newer Shimano cranksets have a proprietary bolt pattern that allows you to run whatever chainrings you wish and the FD will shift it. My new bike is being built up with a 53/36 x 11-30.
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Old 12-24-19, 01:17 PM
  #5900  
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Originally Posted by Cypress
Older post, but I'll chime in. The newer Shimano cranksets have a proprietary bolt pattern that allows you to run whatever chainrings you wish and the FD will shift it. My new bike is being built up with a 53/36 x 11-30.
Too late, ha ha. I got a steal on a new take off R9100 crank in 53/39 and got an 11-30 cassette and the R8000 mid cage rear. Now can run all sorts of fun on it.

Itís nice. Iím used to a 54t 1x setup on the TT bike so no biggie doing 53/39 on the road bike.

Got a gold chain also, lol. Bling bling.
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