Racer Tech Thread
#1228
Senior Member
thanks for the info guys.
will i find a better deal than something like this (Full Warranty SRAM Rival 22 BB30 170mm 50 34 110mm BCD Crankset | eBay my friggin fsa sl-k is messed up again (tightening nut strips because the material is aluminum and super soft). borrowing one for the time being, but need a long term solution.
will i find a better deal than something like this (Full Warranty SRAM Rival 22 BB30 170mm 50 34 110mm BCD Crankset | eBay my friggin fsa sl-k is messed up again (tightening nut strips because the material is aluminum and super soft). borrowing one for the time being, but need a long term solution.
#1231
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in the past it was sometimes impossible to get the right spacers for sram bb30 w/o buying the sram bottom bracket...just to get the 10mm spacer. they may be more readily available now. might cost you a few extra bucks.
i can't speak to fSA bb30 cranks as i haven't installed any lately.
#1232
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I think I'm going to pony up and do what I've wanted to do for a while and upgrade to a shimano crank. This fsa crank has been an utter pos.
#1234
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True, it can take some work to get the preload right. Going to a Shimano crank in a BB30 BB is going to require adapters or a conversion BB.
#1235
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I've been using Bontrager Sideswipe RL side-entry cages for years on my MTBs.
Never lost a bottle, on any ride or in any race.
Terrain: Upstate NY, VA, NC, CO, and Lake Tahoe, CA, areas. Racing Pro/Open MTB and the requisite training for that level.
The "never lost a bottle" includes several yard sales where I've taken a spill at Mach Stupid, off road, on east coast rocky trails.
#1236
VeloSIRraptor
#1237
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thanks for the info guys.
will i find a better deal than something like this (Full Warranty SRAM Rival 22 BB30 170mm 50 34 110mm BCD Crankset | eBay my friggin fsa sl-k is messed up again (tightening nut strips because the material is aluminum and super soft). borrowing one for the time being, but need a long term solution.
will i find a better deal than something like this (Full Warranty SRAM Rival 22 BB30 170mm 50 34 110mm BCD Crankset | eBay my friggin fsa sl-k is messed up again (tightening nut strips because the material is aluminum and super soft). borrowing one for the time being, but need a long term solution.
#1238
Senior Member
__________________
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
#1240
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#1241
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The expanding collet design of the Praxis set up should be more reliable. It is also self-aligning by design, so don't have to worry about alignment of the BB as much.
#1242
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Mikey, I've got a small bunch of cranks at home for reasons not worth getting into. If you can tell me exactly what you want I can see if I might have something that will work (I'm too lazy to piece it together here). No guarantees as most of my stuff is 172.5, but if you are looking to save a few bucks I might be able to help you.
#1243
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For the BB30 guys.
I've tried sram, cannondale (which are probably endure re-branded), enduro, and currently Phil Wood bearings. All steel.
I thought I'd be adventurous and got a set of Hawk Racing bearings to try out last fall. After the winter, I decided to put them in the other day to address a slight creak.
Then went in fine, same as all bb30 bearings without much issue. Green Loctite between bearing and shell, RnR SuperWeb between hollowgram spindle and bearings.
Re-assemble the crank and they are *very* stiff/hard to turn. Figure it's just the seal or grease used and they will break in.
Go out for first ride, and the thing clicks and creaks to high hell. Super frustrated I come home and pull the crank. Both bearings have notches and are rough turning.
Completely dumbfounded. They were installed same manner as all the others and I don't understand how they failed so quickly. Going to send my first frustration email to Hawk to see what they say, although I expect them the blame on user install error (not sure how to argue, I understand they can't verify they were installed correctly).
I've tried sram, cannondale (which are probably endure re-branded), enduro, and currently Phil Wood bearings. All steel.
I thought I'd be adventurous and got a set of Hawk Racing bearings to try out last fall. After the winter, I decided to put them in the other day to address a slight creak.
Then went in fine, same as all bb30 bearings without much issue. Green Loctite between bearing and shell, RnR SuperWeb between hollowgram spindle and bearings.
Re-assemble the crank and they are *very* stiff/hard to turn. Figure it's just the seal or grease used and they will break in.
Go out for first ride, and the thing clicks and creaks to high hell. Super frustrated I come home and pull the crank. Both bearings have notches and are rough turning.
Completely dumbfounded. They were installed same manner as all the others and I don't understand how they failed so quickly. Going to send my first frustration email to Hawk to see what they say, although I expect them the blame on user install error (not sure how to argue, I understand they can't verify they were installed correctly).
#1245
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Hollowgram Si crank (SRM) so non-drive side is non-adjustable shouldered spindle.
Drive Side is bearing shield, 4 plastic spacers (can use up to 5), and wavy washer. Then arm bolt tightened to 40 Nm.
Drive Side is bearing shield, 4 plastic spacers (can use up to 5), and wavy washer. Then arm bolt tightened to 40 Nm.
#1247
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When I reinstalled the other bearings I had, I put them in the same way and no creaking.
The Hawk bearings have very noticeable notches/grinding when turning after the short ride I did on them.
The Hawk bearings have very noticeable notches/grinding when turning after the short ride I did on them.
#1248
Senior Member
Strongly consider the praxis adapter. The wheels adatpers (if its the delrin cups I'm thinking of) still leave you with the bearing to frame interface issues.
The expanding collet design of the Praxis set up should be more reliable. It is also self-aligning by design, so don't have to worry about alignment of the BB as much.
The expanding collet design of the Praxis set up should be more reliable. It is also self-aligning by design, so don't have to worry about alignment of the BB as much.
#1249
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I have some barely used Reynolds carbon brake pads but they are the Campagnolo shape and my race bike is SRAM/Shimano. Is it possible to alter them to fit Shimano holders? I was thinking I could use a rat tail file on the groove. Anyone tried this?
#1250
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Yes, it's worth it.
You won't regret it.