you own 2 power meters and can't afford a calibrated weight?

sure--go the known quantity of water. realize you need >10kg of water (and more like 20kg) to have a better chance of accuracy. oh, and by the way, what's the exact weight of that bucket?? :)

Haha, I can afford a weight. How much utility am I going to get out of a known weight around the house after I'm done :) ? Great advice all around, thanks. BTW I own 3 meters... Third is an old pt built into a disc on my TT bike. But I hate riding the damn thing so I don't worry about it.

i dunno....how much time has been spent in this thread and what's the hourly value of your time? you could have just purchased the weight and been done with it by now! :)

seriously, though, any meter can go out of spec. i advocate a quick check initially and again after 3 and 6 months of receiving a meter, until you're satisfied that it is bomber. then i check 1x a year, just to prove to myself things are good.

if you have it, you will use it. PTs go out of spec on occasion. you'll catch potential issues earlier and avoid data loss.

I see Greipel is using a PC8:
https://www.strava.com/activities/341907174/overview

Interestingly it seems that Strava doesn't display the made-up "estimated power" for pros.

... I see for stage 3 he didn't strip the power data out of the uploaded file:
https://www.strava.com/activities/340784637/analysis

Just 1800w NBD.

I'm stuck trying to decide whether to go with a Caad 10 frame now or wait a couple weeks/months? for a Caad 12 to replace my broken frame.

Had Cannondale not just announced the Caad 12, I'd have just gone with a 10 and been fine with it. The 12 supposedly rides better, but it does have a slightly different geometry with the BB being 3mm closer to the ground. Theoretically, that would make the 10 a better bike for crits, but Cannondale says that 3mm is intended to offset the height increase from wider tires.

The 12 has nicer paint job options than the 10, which is important, but I would have to buy a complete bike if I go 12 and sell off any parts I don't want.

Do you guys have any thoughts? This will be my back up/race bike. I like the geometry of my past Cannondales better than that of my Argon. (Part of me wishes I had gotten another Cannondale over the Argon, but I liked the paint job and price of the Argon a lot more.)

And all of this decision is being held up by how much money insurance provides me to replace the frame and rebuild my wheels. I won't get that information until late next week.

If it were me, Caad10 or even 9. They are becoming cheap and this is good for a backup. Depends on what you find. I've purchased a Cervelo R3 and SLC framesets for what I've seen Caad frames for.

What insurance do you have on your bike? Or was it the driver's insurance?

It doesn't display it for me either, unless I'm not using a power meter.

I'd go with the CAAD10 because I hate internally routed cables. Besides, a bike in the garage is worth two in the ether. :)

That looks nice, but I can get a better deal on a Cannondale than the VD.

Id want DA 9000 in 39/53, ideally 180, but anything over 175. (Still can't PM & not in the mood to write a half dozen meaningless posts. :))

do you ride wider tires? we're talking about a jump from 23 to 25 for most people (if you're racing 27s you should have a damn good reason...), and most people lower pressure for higher volume, so it seems like a 3mm drop is just going to be lower no matter what. not saying it will make any noticeable difference for you -- i couldn't know that as i haven't been on the bike.

how desperate are you for a new bike? how confident are you in cannon dale's delivery estimates?

i'd probably look for a 10. go with shorter cranks if you are really worried about a few mm in crits. (seriously)

a friend sent this pic....this was an awesome crit course where you could go hard/pedal through every corner. i never had a pedal strike but this photo makes me realize i was getting close. it was a single shot and happened to catch my foot at BCD. wish i had the head-on angle--we were definitely leaning our bikes pretty good through this turn.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=463467

PM sent.

with shiimano units you select your crank length (165-180) and rings.

"the VD". haven't heard it called THAT in a while. :)

hey, who told you you could take over for [MENTION=206539]rkwaki[/MENTION]?

You get me a DA9000 53/39 172.5 SRM for a grand, you got a deal. If you can't, then I rest my case. :)

+1

But can you easily upload SRM data to Strava?

Well, I can. Maybe lower power levels use less bandwidth. ;)

Somehow, this has often been an excuse for others not uploading. Hmmm. Maybe you're correct.

you already own an SRM or 2. you use the stages for commuting, no?

you want the latest and greatest for a fraction of cost? if i could pull that string for you i would. anyone else want in on that deal? let me go to my money-printer. :)

most of us in this forum spend lots of coin (relatively) on bikes, kit, shoes, etc. we also spend tons of hours on our bikes. the cost per hour of some of this stuff turns out to be low.

on a serious note, when that SRM is still in service 10 years from now but the stages is sitting in a landfill, value becomes more apparent. not hating on stages here but they, like Quarq, don't have a great longevity track record in terms of functioning units in the field. you can still find wired SRMs which are bomber. not the latest/greatest, but cheap and STILL working (with stable slope & offsets) a decade later.

[MENTION=10280]racer[/MENTION]Ex will tell you!

yeah...i just did.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=463507

Some questions need to be asked (not on BF). These kids are weasels.

+1. Well, okay, I prefer 165mm.

I gotz baby ewang. :D

is aluminum fatigue a real thing for alloy frames?