Originally Posted by
cny-bikeman
Actually the goal is to carefully bend back the rim when possible, get the best possible tension and then accept slighly out of true as a trade-off for better stability. If you only focus on true then it won't stay straight very long. What good is 1 mm more true if it comes out of whack the first time you hit a pothole or swerver hard?
+1
If a rim is bent, you can't have BOTH even tension and a perfectly true rim. You'll have to compromise. To prolong the wheel, I try to make the tension as even as possible without making the wobble excessive.