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Old 08-23-07, 11:53 PM
On your left fatty
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Originally Posted by CliftonGK1 View Post
I don't have the space to do full grain brewing. Small patio at the apartment, so no room to set up a mash burner along with having a big grill out there already. Maybe if the girl and I get a house, I'll look at setting up a brewing shack...
Google 'Brew in a bag' or BIAB or got to Aussie HOme Brewer and search there. You can brew all grain in an apartment. (i do)
Originally Posted by CliftonGK1 View Post
Here's how I made the uber-ale:

Start with a 2 gallon concentrated wort. Around the same poundage of malt that you'd use for a 40 pint batch, but only QS it to 2 or 2.5 gallons. Cool it and pitch it with the usual amount of yeast (WLP001 is a liquid culture, so pitch the whole tube.) Par standard, take a hydro reading, seal it, and let it rip.
When the tank slows its bubbling, open it and take a hydro reading like you were finished. Calculate your first fermentation change percentage.
Make a 3/4 gallon wort with 1/3 of the remaining malt extract. Cool and feed into the fermenter. Take a new hydro reading.

Repeat this process of 3/4 feeds, and treat each one as a new fermentation (regarding the hydro readings.) Final fermentation is when it stops after reaching final volume, and you've aerated it twice. Final alcohol concentration is simply additive percentages from each fermentation reading.

Use a top draw syphon to rack out to your hopping tank because the bottom of the primary tank is going to be an unholy mess.

Dry hop on 1 full ounce of whatever hops you prefer, for 1 full month.

Add your bottling sugar at 3/4 normal volume, condition for 6 months minimum.

Depending on the fermentable sugars profile of the malts you choose, the concentration of the malts, and the relative activity of your culture, WLP001 can ferment up to 25% a.b.v.
Dark malts and a quick trip in a blast chiller before final bottling/kegging (must have a CO2 setup if you blast chill) could produce a bock with a content upwards of 60 proof, if you really tried hard enough.
I don't know how to make this sound helpful and not snarky, but here goes - my point is to help, not to be a know it all.
That process looks like it's ripe for infection problems - playing with primary like that is asking for it.
Also, aeration after the yeast has gone to work causes a whole bunch of problems, not least of which is oxidised beer, which causes all sort of off flavours.
If you are going for a barley wine or Belgian strong or whatever, you might be better served by simply making a single really strong wort with extra malt extract and up to 30% table sugar. You won't get cidery flavours from that (the Belgians do it, and not many people complain of cidery flavour from their beers). Sugar will lighten the body though.
If i was after a strong ale like that - i'd be making a single strong wort, with candi sugar to up the alc%. I'd hop it to about 45 IBU, i'd make a huge yeast starter too - it really helps get fermentation going, and it reduces the chances of off flavour from fermentation by-products. I wouldn't touch it for 4 weeks, then i'd be transfering straight to a keg. Leaving it on the yeast for that long is fine - the best homebrewer in the states does it, and he wins with his beers every year (Jamil Zainasheff)
Anyway, i hope that wasn't coming across badly or anything - hope it helps, cos i love to see people making beer.

Oh and olebike - IPA is a british style that is actually balanced, just like a bitter. Everything is turned up a notch, not just the hops. American IPA is something different - i like it, but only in small doses. It is still difficult to make an IPA that is good, just as hard as any other style of beer.
If you don't like hops, that's cool. Check out wit bier, very little hopping in that style.
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